The great news? We believe Ayres is crafting some of the most sublime wine in the entire Willamette Valley, and today’s stupendously delicious “Perspective” illustrates why Oregon Pinot is in the midst of fanatical fame. The unfortunate news? It seems more and more people have become aware of this, given that winemaker Brad McLeroy had to post the following statement on his website: “Due to extraordinary demand, we’re sold out of our current releases.” All of them.

Clearly, these wines are becoming harder to find, but our committed, longtime friendship has kept us in the running for a small allocation. Like we always say, stick your nose in the glass and tell me this doesn’t emit some of the most flawlessly pure and noble Pinot aromatics imaginable. It is, in a few words, a $34 Burgundy-buster, so cherish the gorgeous liquid in the bottle and thank Ayres profusely for a continued best-in-class value. Note that this parcel is still enjoying perfect provenance in Oregon; please allow 7-10 days for it to arrive at our warehouse. 

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Unlike the other sub-appellations of the Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge is a distinguished geological formation of uniform soils—a unique seabed uplift from the northwest peak of the Chehalem Mountains. It’s not the coolest place in the Willamette, nor the warmest, but it hangs its hat on being one of the driest, with a long consistent growing season less susceptible to temperature spikes and uneven ripening. And with Pinot Noir, the fewer climatic twists and turns, the better. 

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After several years making wine under the brilliant wing of Veronique Drouhin (of Domaine Drouhin) in the heart of Dundee Hills, Brad McLeroy ventured out on his own with just a few acres. He has since built it to 20, most of which are planted east and rooted in ancient Willakenzie sediments. The McLeroys are the fortunate gatekeepers of their land. They farm their own vines, they make the wines on site, and they live there—it doesn’t get more “artisanal” than that. No herbicides or pesticides have ever been used at the Ayres farm. All the vineyards are dry-farmed, implementing organic practices, and the estate has been certified sustainable since 2007. 

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“Perspective” is a blend of Ayres’ estate vineyard in Ribbon Ridge and the nearby organically farmed “Armstrong Vineyard.” All hand-harvested fruit for this cuvée fermented with natural yeasts and a small portion of whole clusters was left intact to enliven texture and add complexity. The wine spent 10 months in French oak barrels, 15% new, before a gentle bottling.

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All this means dark-fruited, plush Pinot Noir that’s a world away from being dense and extracted. Theirs is a remarkably lighthanded Burgundian style that still preserves the pristine Oregon ripeness that we’ve all come to love. I recommend choosing a Burgundy stem and serving the wine at a steady 60 degrees. That said, there is more lushness and intoxicating perfume in this 2021 as compared to the last few releases. Ripe black cherry, black raspberry, spiced Damson plum jam, and wild strawberries that soar out of a glass alongside candied violets, dewy rose, baking spice, forest floor, and wet rock. This is a stunningly soft Pinot Noir with silken tannins and a deep berry-fruit core that’s elevated by just the right amount of refreshing acidity. Enjoy now and over the next several years. Cheers!