Russell Joyce, Arroyo Seco Vermentino Monterey County, California 2021 (750mL)

The Joyce family made its first foray into Central Coast wine when Francis Joyce planted vines on a Carmel Valley hillside in 1989. His son, Russell, grew up among those vines and has since become one of the premier interpreters of the Monterey County terroir. Russell Joyce works with an all-star roster of growers to source fruit for his 10,000-case production, and is currently planting more of his own estate vineyards (including some Vermentino in Arroyo Seco).

In 2021, Russell Joyce was given access to a plot of Vermentino just down the road from his own ranch in the Arroyo Seco AVA. The vines were planted in 1997 for pioneering vintner (and noted Italophile) Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon, so the raw material was impeccable. Soils in the site are a poor, rocky mixture based on decomposed granite.

Shining a pale straw-gold in the glass with silvery reflections, this could pass for a Vermentino from Italy’s Ligurian coastline. While still young and taut, its aromas are starting to blossom: notes of wild herbs, sea salt, white grapefruit, green apple, and lemon balm carry over to the medium-bodied palate, which has a slightly “phenolic” (i.e. tannic) quality. Textbook seafood wine!