Although Champagne Paul Déthune has comfortably established itself as one of Champagne’s finest Grand Cru labels, tonight’s rarely encountered vintage Blanc de Blancs elevates their status to a supernatural degree. The vast majority of Déthune’s lineup is dominated by Pinot Noir but every once in a (long) while, a vintage Blanc de Blancs quietly slips out of their cellar to make a lightning-quick appearance on the market.
Today’s rip-roaringly powerful and delightfully opulent 2015 is their newest white whale, and it has all the premium specs per usual: coveted Ambonnay raw material, sustainable farming, French oak vinification, five years on lees in a 17th-century cellar, and a production most accurately described as “microscopic.” Honestly, once you crunch the numbers, this rarefied release becomes less about profit and more about genuine passion. So, if you’re a longtime fan of Déthune or luxuriously refined Blanc de Blancs of any price, this is an absolute must. It’s bound to stun the connoisseurs of the world, as well as those who are seeking entry into the high-end Champagne portal. Most exciting of all: As of right now, it can only be found here! Up to six bottles per person.
Champagne Paul Déthune is a récoltant-manipulant (indicated by the tiny initials “RM” on the label), or grower-producer, which means they farm their own vines and make/sell their own wines. While major Champagne houses, or négociant-manipulants, typically make wines by purchasing grapes, a “grower-producer” controls every aspect of farming and winemaking.
The Déthunes have been farming and crafting Champagne in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay since 1889, but their winemaking lineage can be traced as far back as 1610. Today, Pierre Déthune and his wife, Sophie, tend to seven hectares (that’s it!) of organically farmed vines throughout Ambonnay. They are adamant about respecting nature: organic fertilizers are used, cover crops are planted, solar panels have been installed, and a rainwater collection system has been implemented, making them one of Champagne’s leading champions of sustainability. The Déthune’s life commitment to intricate work—from natural farming of Grand Cru vines in Ambonnay to a methodically traditional approach in the winery—is on full display in each bottle of their handcrafted wine.
This special cuvée is 100% Chardonnay from Grand Cru Ambonnay that was harvested entirely from the 2015 vintage. Fermentations (both alcoholic and full malolactic) occurred in 205-liter barrels sourced from a local cooper and, after bottling without filtration in early 2016, the wine aged in their hand-carved, centuries-old chalk cellar for over five years. It was then disgorged and fitted with a cork. An interesting note: Instead of adding a standard dosage consisting of beet sugar, Pierre uses MCR, or moût concentré rectifié which is super-concentrated grape must reduced down to its base sugars. It’s rarely found in Champagne, but several growers are now using it with the mindset that it creates a more neutral and consistent sweetener.
Over many years and dozens of drained bottles, I’ve found Paul Déthune’s wines flaunt their impressive depth and invitingly broad layers best after opening up for 15-30 minutes in larger stems. Consumed around 55 degrees, the results are always reminiscent of a finely carbonated Burgundy. Each release of their rare Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs erupts with atomized minerality and energized orchard fruit but given the generous warmth of 2015, this core explodes with an attractive lushness. There is incredible vibrancy and profundity to each sip, as well as luxurious textures bursting with roasted yellow apple, apricot, grilled lemon, toasted nuts, honeysuckle, brioche, lees, vanilla bean, crushed rock, and hints of exotic spice. A broad, mineral-studded finish lingers for 15 seconds before triggering an intense mouthwatering sensation which further speaks to its cellar-worthy appeal. Enjoy one or two bottles now and save your others for 2025 and well beyond. Cheers!
