The Pavia farm is headquartered in Agliano Terme, outside Asti, which, in addition to being prime Barbera territory (see Vietti’s “Tre Vigne”), is one of Grignolino’s historic terroirs. Namesake Agostino Pavia began acquiring vineyards in the area in the 1950s (when Piedmontese were leaving the countryside in droves to find work in Turin or Milan). His sons, Giuseppe and Mauro, now helm the operation.

Grignolino is one of many indigenous Italian reds grown almost exclusively in Piedmont (although some members may recall that Grignolino dominated the first Napa Valley vineyard Joe Heitz purchased in the early 1960s). In Piedmont, there are fewer than 1,000 hectares of Grignolino in existence, in vineyards stretching from Asti to Tortona. Appellations include Grignolino d’Asti and Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese.

The name Grignolino is derived from a Piedmontese dialect word for “pip,” or “seed,” as it is a variety with lots of seeds, giving it a jolt of tannin. At the same time, Grignolino is not deep in color pigmentation or extract. Grapes are destemmed and subjected to a brief maceration during fermentation to avoid excessive tannin extraction from the skins. It is aged in stainless steel briefly before bottling. Give this a nice chill (even refrigerator temp is okay), pour into a Burgundy stem, and enjoy this wine’s bright spicy perfume: notes of wild strawberry, white cherry, rhubarb, white and black pepper, wild herbs, and underbrush. Light-bodied and refreshingly taut, this is a food wine extraordinaire, terrific with cured meats and cheeses, pizza, and light, tomato-sauced pastas.