A friend and former colleague often used the phrase “Put that in your back pocket” when imparting a valuable piece of information or wisdom. I think of that when I consider the many merits of this Rosso di Montalcino from Bolsignano: It really is the ultimate “back-pocket” red. Give me a case of this, a case of good grower Champagne, and a case of proper Chablis and I’ve got 9/10 wine situations in my life covered—in grand style, no less. For just $30, I get a vibrant, organically farmed, boutique-scale wine from a prestige terroir, one that’s going to make me look good whenever I reach for it. Who doesn’t appreciate effortless style?
I dare say that this wine will outclass most red Burgundy and Bordeaux it goes up against at this price point, but if not that then it will at least be the most memorable: the one that most convincingly tells you that you’re drinking wine, not fruit juice; the one that makes you crave food the most; the one that transports you to its place most vividly. I’ll likely get some pushback on that from my colleagues, but on balance, Rosso di Montalcino—and, more specifically, Montalcino made with the kind of artisanal devotion Roberto Rubegni lavishes on Bolsignano—is the perfect “everyday” wine. Take a case and rest easy: You couldn’t ask for a better red to have in your back pocket!
As I’ve said in previous offers, buying a wine from Bolsignano is like buying a custom-tailored suit for an off-the-rack price—maybe even less. There’s no excess weight or heavy oak influence in Rubegnis Brunello or Rosso, just resonant chords of black and red cherry fruit and a cascade of mineral/earth notes that make me yearn for a return trip to Tuscany. Rubegni is a one-man show who does two things—Sangiovese wine and extra-virgin olive oil—and does them very well. He just doesn’t do either in large quantities, which makes today’s offer that much more special. Usually, a wine this rare, from Certified Organic vineyards, costs more, not less, than larger-scale brands. That’s how scarcity works, right? Usually, yes—but not today.
Rubegni’s wines are crafted in a style that is worlds away from the engineered, magenta sheen of many “modern” Montalcino reds. The process begins in a small vineyard that doubles as the Rubegni family’s backyard. Roberto is a passionate student and expert in organic viticulture, his is one of the most painstakingly farmed vineyards in Montalcino. Teeming with butterflies, bees, hummingbirds, and rabbits, it is an oasis of biological activity and harmony. Roberto spends most days in denim coveralls, tending the vines, personally monitoring the progress of each wine, and doing everything possible to ensure that his small farm remains a hospitable home for flora, fauna, and impressive Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino.
Today’s ’18 captures the spirit of Rosso di Montalcino perfectly: It is bright, lifted, and fruit-first, having spent just six months aging in used oak casks before bottling. But don’t confuse “bright” with “light.” It’s a solid medium, leaning toward medium-plus, in body, with nice tension and firm structure. There’s enough wine here that you won’t miss the Brunello (although that, too, is one of Montalcino’s best-in-class values). It pours a luminous garnet red moving to a pink rim, with aromas of red and black cherry, currants, blackberry, black plum, anise, rose petals, underbrush, aromatic herbs, and sandalwood. Serve this at 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems after a 30-minute decant and you’re covered not just now but over the next 3-5 years, maybe more. I’ll leave it to you to gauge how much you’ll need, but I’m going to suggest going deep. Check out the very woodsy, seasonally appealing pasta recipe we’ve attached here, and start pulling corks as soon as possible. It’s just too easy!
