The extraordinary quality and awe factor of Domaine Schoech’s legendary Grand Cru “Kaefferkopf” should no longer come as a surprise: Although this micro-production cuvée is strictly parceled each year, it has become a deeply familiar destination for world-class dry Riesling—and has long served as the most explosive value in their lineup. Yes, it’s youthful in vintage, but this mesmerizing $49 Grand Cru is fueled by ancient star power, courtesy of Schoech’s 371 years of winemaking and the immortalized “Kaefferkopf” vineyard, a terroir that has been documented since 1338.
And yet, despite holding seven centuries of history, as well as becoming Alsace’s first officially declared lieu-dit in 1932, “Kaefferkopf” was the final vineyard to be granted “Grand Cru” status. The reason, aside from some trivial wine politics, is due to its diverse range of soils and the rare exception to allow blends (a permission granted to just one other Grand Cru vineyard). Today’s luxurious bottling, however, is 100% Riesling, sourced from two tiny organic parcels that Schoech farms and raises in painstakingly manual detail. If that doesn’t get you excited, then I have nothing else to say—there aren’t many people in my circle that would decline a sub-$50 Grand Cru from a historic vineyard and winemaking family!
Do you ever wonder why so many sommeliers call Riesling their favorite grape? It’s one of the most age-worthy varieties on the planet and a chameleon capable of expressing even the most subtle distinctions in soil type. Those who question the concept of terroir need only compare a glass of slate-grown Riesling to that of a limestone or granite parcel—they will encounter dramatically different wines. Terroir is a real thing, and few grapes illustrate the concept as definitively as Riesling. Moreover, there’s no more versatile wine with food.
Today’s bottle hails from one of Alsace’s gems, the ancient Grand Cru “Kaefferkopf.” This site clings to a steep hillside in the Vosges mountains, and Schoech’s two organic parcels—one granite, the other sandstone—hover around 1,000 feet in elevation. Whenever I’m in Alsace, I marvel at the region’s seemingly ever-present sun and warmth, even when it’s cold and rainy in nearby Champagne and Burgundy. That’s because the Vosges create what locals refer to as a föhn, or rain shadow. As severe storms make their way through the Vosges, they gradually offload precipitation and cool air on west-facing slopes. By the time the weather system arrives at Grand Cru “Kaefferkopf,” often all that’s left is a warm, dry breeze (föhn). This warmth is one of the many reasons why today’s wine offers such disarmingly vivid fruit and seductive texture. It’s a special site with a truly unique microclimate.
Every low-yielding cluster is hand-harvested, fermented on ambient yeasts, and aged in stainless steel vessels for one year. There is no chaptalization, no forced malolactic fermentation, and no fining—just clean, precise winemaking that showcases the immense mineral power, ripeness, and vigor of Grand Cru Kafferkopf. And, to avoid any premature drinking, the Schoechs hold onto their wines for an additional year after bottling! On average, only 500 cases are produced annually.
Schoech’s 2019 “Kaefferkopf” Grand Cru Riesling is a luxuriously supple and dynamic bottling. It doesn’t smack you around/assault your palate like some young Riesling nor does it fall flat or one-dimensional because of its youth. Instead, it offers up beautiful concentration and richness that is accompanied by exotic layers of mango peel, white peach, guava, kiwi, and makrut lime that’s further delineated by candied white flowers, lees, honeysuckle, smoke, and powdered white stone. On the palate, a medium-plus-bodied, tension-filled, multi-textured Grand Cru experience boldly announces itself and stretches out for miles in every direction before finishing lush and dry. Coming from someone who has a wealth of experience with Schoech’s lineup, this ’19 has got to be a high point in their vinous legacy. I suggest a minimum 30-minute decant and service around 50-55 degrees in all-purpose stems. Uncork your other bottles over the next 5-7 years—they’ll only get better!
