From the Wine Shop
Terrevive, “No Autoclave” Rosato Frizzante Emilia-Romagna, Italy 2020 (750mL)
You couldn’t ask for a better case study on the power of natural wine than Terrevive. This is an estate devoted to biodynamically farmed Lambrusco vinified in the ancestral method, which is the opposite of what many people think of when they think of Lambrusco (a wine whose most popular incarnations a generation ago were engineered to taste like soda). Terrevive’s Gianluca Bergianti isn’t the only Lambrusco-maker to revive ancient winemaking traditions and embrace sustainable farming, but he is surely one of the most fanatically devoted.
The 2020 “No Autoclave” comes from a field blend of different Lambrusco sub-varieties, co-fermented in concrete eggs using ambient yeasts. Unfermented must is later added to a finished, dry wine and the wine is bottled and sealed, during which a secondary fermentation creates the light effervescence you see when the wine is poured. In the glass, it’s a light rosy red moving to a pink/magenta rim—way lighter in color than most Lambrusco you encounter—with perfumed aromas of red cherry, blood orange, violets, pomegranate, wild herbs, pink peppercorns, and a touch of bread dough. It is racy, bone-dry, and taut, pulling at the insides of your cheeks and demanding you get in the kitchen and start cooking (in fact, you could easily find yourself draining the better part of a bottle before your prep is even finished).
- SoilSandy Loam
- Temp.Serve at 50° F
- GlasswareLarge All-Purpose Stem
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Through the grapevine
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