Venturi Vineyard is just north of Ukiah, in Mendocino’s Calpella Valley, on predominantly Pinole gravelly loam soils. Combining sandstone, shale and quartz, these deep, well-drained soils were formed from alluvial flows, depositing fist-sized stones. Planted in the late-1940s, the vineyard is still amazingly healthy and productive. The vines are bush-trained and have been dry-farmed since inception. Farming is Certified Organic.

“Native Son” is part of an eclectic range from Jordan Kivelstadt, who left a career in consulting for wine. He apprenticed around the world before returning to California in 2007, producing 125 cases of Syrah from a family vineyard. Since then, he’s grown his team and his network; the Venturi Vineyard exemplifies the type of heirloom site he seeks out.

Sourced from a two-acre block at Venturi, this 100% Charbono is fermented using ambient yeasts and 50% whole grape clusters. Winemaker San Baron strives for gentle extraction of color and tannin through brief “pumpovers” during fermentation. The wine ages for 10 months in neutral French oak barrels before bottling. The result is a dark, slightly brooding red with a purplish hue and a rush of black/blue fruit at the outset. The wine has a dense, focused feel, with notes of black raspberry, boysenberry, purple flowers, turned earth, underbrush, and crushed black rocks. Medium-plus in body, with coffee-ground tannins that will bite into a well-marbled ribeye or rustic stew.