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Domaine Darviot-Perrin, Volnay Premier Cru “Santenots”Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France 2013 (750mL)

From the Wine Shop

Domaine Darviot-Perrin, Volnay Premier Cru “Santenots” Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France 2013 (750mL)

Fruit
Earth
Body
Tannin
Acid
Alcohol
“We’ve been rolling out a greatest-hits collection of Darviot-Perrin Burgundies over the last few months, and after a string of star-quality Chardonnays, it’s time to shine a spotlight on Pinot Noir—why not start with a well-aged Premier Cru from a sleeper vintage?”

Considered one of the linchpins of premium Burgundy, one would think the Darviot-Perrin name stretched for centuries. However, Didier Darviot didn’t release his first commercial vintage until 1989. It did not take long to make a name for himself, and by the 21st century, the wines were on the radar of every Burgundy insider. After retiring in 2017, Didier searched high and low for a successor and two years later, he landed on one that was close to home—his son, Pierre-Antonin, who left his own career to carry on the family business. In that short time, he’s transitioned the estate’s vineyards—which have been farmed organically for 25 years—to full-scale biodynamic agriculture. The estate is based in the village of Monthelie (where its red wines are vinified), but also maintains a cellar in Meursault.

And, when it comes to the finest Pinot Noir, there’s really no argument: Along with “Taillepieds,” Caillerets, and “Clos des Chênes,” “Santenots” is one of the star crus of Volnay. It is, as many Burgundy fanatics know, a unique site:  Located in the northern reaches of Meursault, which becomes Volnay, it is planted to both red and white grapes. The reds fall under the red-specific Volnay appellation, the whites under Meursault. The soils of the site riff on the classic clay/limestone mix, showing a reddish tint that indicates a high iron content. 

Though the regimen may evolve as Pierre-Antonin Darviot takes over the reins more fully, the reds at Darviot-Perrin have historically been made from fully destemmed fruit, followed by a short “cold soak” prior to fermentation. Aging was carried out in 25% new French oak barriques for 18 months, and, especially now that the wine has enjoyed further bottle age, this wine’s fruit/earth components are on center stage. In the glass, the wine displays a translucent ruby/garnet core moving to a pink rim, with high-toned aromas of wild strawberry, rhubarb, black cherry, violets, underbrush, and a hint of wood smoke. Volnay often has a slightly rustic, woodsy edge to it, and this one is no exception, although that element is perfectly calibrated—ultimately, I’d describe it as silky and refined. Decant it about 30 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems at 60 degrees and you’re in for a picture-perfect red Burgundy experience. This one immediately had me thinking about one of my “go-to” recipe suggestions: The famous Zuni Café roast chicken. This pairing always delivers at the highest possible level. Enjoy!

  • CountryFrance
  • RegionBurgundy / Côte de Beaune
  • Sub-RegionVolnay Premier Cru Santenots
  • SoilClay-Limestone
  • FarmingPracticing Organic
  • BlendPinot Noir
  • Alcohol13.5%
  • OakFrench Barrels, 25% New
  • Temp.Serve at 60° F
  • GlasswareLarge Burgundy Stem
  • DrinkingNow-2028+
  • Decanting30 Minutes
  • PairingZuni Café Roast Chicken

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