Just because we avoid scores around here doesn’t mean we don’t glance at them on occasion, but today’s scintillating wine demanded far more than a quick look. We all did a long double-take upon seeing a string of impressively high reviews: For eight consecutive vintages now, Keermont’s “Terrasse” has received glowing reports in line with many Premier Crus and Classified Growths, and today’s 2018 continues the hot streak. Truthfully, the only reason this isn’t allocated or more expensive is because of its exotic origin: Stellenbosch, in South Africa’s breathtaking Western Cape.
At this point, Burgundy is akin to a time-honored, 24-hour news network (accessible to all, whenever and wherever), whereas Stellenbosch is a one-time special that’s been quietly building up a culty, underground following. If you ask us, Keermont’s 2018 “Terrasse” is ready for a primetime slot on a major network. You’ll draw countless parallels with many of the world’s greatest whites in this dynamic, barrel-aged blend of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier; it’s as if Keermont is humbly flaunting Stellenbosch’s chameleonic terroir and their exceptionally nuanced skills in the cellar. I still can’t get over how richly textured, wildly refreshing, and surprisingly complex this is, and all for $29...it's vinous paradise!
Situated just east of Cape Town and looking out toward False Bay, Stellenbosch is the key wine appellation on South Africa’s Western Cape. Founded by Mark Wraith and his family, Keermont’s property is specifically located in the Blaauwklippen Valley. It’s flanked by a couple of imposing mountain ranges which do a fine job in delaying morning sun exposure. To further moderate temperatures, a southeast breeze from the Atlantic Ocean is constantly cooling the vines. So, although considered a warm, “continental” climate, Keermont has carved out a unique oasis that produces balanced and exceptionally lifted wines. From buying land in 2003 to bottling their first vintage in 2007 to building a winery in 2010, what they’ve achieved in less than two decades is simply remarkable.
Keermont is equipped with just nine hectares of vines for white wine production, half of which are planted to Chenin Blanc. Today’s Terrasse '' relies heavily on that grape, although it also blends in Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and a splash of Viognier. Harvest is carried out by hand, and back in the cellar, each meticulously sorted parcel is vinified separately with indigenous, airborne yeasts. Upon completion, the wine remains in barrel for another 12 months. The finished product is painstakingly bottled by hand, without filtration.
Keermont’s 2018 white blend spills into the glass with a vivid deep yellow core and instantly unleashes powerful, exotic, and surprisingly complex aromatics. Even without a decant, you’ll uncover notes of Kaffir lime leaf, lemon curd, apricot, white nectarine, green/yellow apple skin, wildflowers, lees, honeysuckle, vanilla bean, lemongrass, and a touch of wild herbs. The palate unfolds with enticing richness and a constant stream of mouthwatering acidity that crescendos with subtle spice, crushed minerals, and an explosion of citrus. You can enjoy this now and often, although it will keep to 2025 and beyond. Serve in all-purpose stems around 50 degrees. Cheers!
