When you consider a 411-year winemaking lineage, Grand Cru Ambonnay Pinot Noir, and one of the most fastidious cellar regimens in Champagne, Paul Déthune’s $68 Blanc de Noirs has no competition. This is in a class by itself. In our opinion, this micro-produced cuvée is on the shortlist of Champagne’s greatest Grand Cru values, so you’d think we would’ve built up an enviable collection. On the contrary, we can hardly ever offer it due to soaring demand and Déthune’s steadfast commitment to keeping their micro-production, well, micro. Tasting each new disgorgement is always one of the biggest breaths of fresh air in the kingdom of Champagne because their multi-generation commitment to intricate work is always on full, vinous, HD display—from natural farming of Grand Cru vines to ultra-classic work in the winery.
Still, that’s not what makes today’s limited Grand Cru Champagne such a legendary wine: Though all of Déthune’s Pinot Noir is farmed from family-owned vines in Ambonnay, the majority of it comes from “Les Crayères,” a legendary Grand Cru site that is among Champagne’s most hallowed vineyards. You likely know it from Egly-Ouriet, who proudly displays it on his own Blanc de Noirs, and forces you to pay $200 for it, too! Well, get a taste of today’s Paul Déthune at a third of the price, and the next time you see “Crayères,” Egly won’t be the only name on your mind! Up to six bottles per person.
Paul Déthune is a Récoltant-Manipulant (“RM” can be seen on the label), or grower-producer, which means they own, farm, and craft wines solely from their estate. While major Champagne houses, or Négociant-Manipulants, typically make wines by purchasing grapes from many different farmers, a “grower-producer” controls every aspect of farming and winemaking; 95% of the fruit must be from their own vineyards (if a grower who only has Chardonnay vines wants to make a rosé, he can purchase some Pinot Noir/Meunier with that remaining 5%). The Déthunes have been farming and crafting Champagne in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay since 1889, but their winemaking lineage can be traced to 1610. Today, Pierre Déthune and his wife, Sophie, tend to seventeen organically-tended acres throughout Ambonnay. It is here that Pinot Noir reveals its most intense expression, delivering signature minerality and terroir that translates to opulent, perfectly balanced Champagnes.
They are also adamant about sustainability: natural fertilizers are used; cover crops line the vine rows; solar panels generate most of their energy; and they siphon their water from a rain collection system. Grapes for their Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs—a large portion of which is from the famous “Les Crayères” vineyard—are hand-harvested at ripe levels and fermented (both alcoholic and full-malolactic) in 205-liter French oak barriques and massive foudres. The base wine was then blended with a 40-year-old, barrel-aged perpetual reserve which represents nearly ⅓ of the final cuvée. This then sent to age in their hand-carved, 17th-century chalk cellars for several years. An interesting note: Instead of adding a standard dosage consisting of beet sugar, Pierre uses MCR, or moût concentré rectifié, which is super-concentrated grape must reduced down to its base sugars. It’s rarely found in Champagne, but several growers are now using it with the mindset that it creates a more neutral and consistent sweetener. Five grams were added, essentially qualifying it for “Extra-Brut.”
Déthune’s rich, mouth-coating Champagnes are serious Grand Cru expressions that shatter their price point. Their newest Blanc de Noirs disgorgement (March 2020) exhibits a yellow-gold hue with hints of green that are highlighted by energetic beads that race into a beautifully fine mousse. The multifaceted nose wafts from the glass with aromas of black cherry, redcurrant, red plum skin, brioche, fresh cream, citrus zest, acacia, honeysuckle, hazelnut, subtle spice, and finely crushed chalk. The full-bodied palate—for Champagne—is dense and satisfying with poised, supple red fruits that move into crushed stone minerality on the finish. Throughout it all, this disgorgement delivers unprecedented freshness that perfectly plays off its savory side. For best results, serve in flared tulips or all-purpose stems to best experience the vast array of complexities. Bonus tip: I enjoy allowing the bubbles to slowly dissipate in a glass over 30-60 minutes—after the lion’s share of carbonation leaves, the expression is almost reminiscent of a great bottle of Burgundy. Whatever your preference, this is a stunning bottle of artisanally crafted champagne that delivers immense quality for the price. You can never go wrong when the label reads Paul Déthune—I’d stake my career on it!
