From the Wine Shop
Champagne Renaudin, Premier Cru “L’Espiegle” Champagne, France 2008 (750mL)
Although passed through many hands and rebuilt, Champagne Renaudin still upholds the
traditions of an ancient estate (Château de Conardins) that was first established in 1724, making it one of the oldest enterprises in all of Champagne. Today, they own just 12 hectares that are spread throughout villages in the Coteaux Sud d’Épernay and the Côte des Blancs. Most of their crop is sold off to the blue-chip houses, but a small portion does remain in-house for production—just 50,000 bottles. For comparison, Moët et Chandon produces tens
of millions per year.
This 2008 micro-produced prestige bottling, “L’Espiegle” comes from Chardonnay vines in the Premier Cru village of Pierry, which lies at the entrance of the Côte des Blancs near Grand Crus Cramant and Chouilly. In the cellar the gently pressed juice saw a slow, unassisted fermentation in older French oak barrels followed by roughly 10 months of maturation. During this time, malolactic was avoided, but they did employ a steady lees stirring regimen to lend more texture and richness. After transferring into bottle, the wine aged in the cellars of Renaudin for 11 years before disgorgement and a sensible six-gram
We’ll be frank: There are only a handful of respectable Champagne estates that age their wines for this long and charge this little—today’s 2008 breaks down to $5.20 per year. Far fewer taste this good: “L’Espiegle” spills into the glass with a deep straw yellow core and quickly effuses intoxicating aromas of creamy yellow apple, pear, ripe pineapple, nougat, lees, marzipan, salt-preserved lemon, toasted hazelnuts, acacia honey, baking spice, and crushed white stones. It’s rich and lively on the palate, with concentrated layers of supple yellow fruit, candied nuts, and lifted citrus that carry into a long, mineral-dominated finish. This is drinking in peak form right now and we expect your bottle will be drained faster than you’d like, so I strongly advise buying no less than two!
- Sub-RegionCoteaux Sud d’Épernay
- SoilChalk & Clay
- OakNeutral Barrel Fermentation
- Temp.Serve at 55° F
- GlasswareAll-Purpose Stem or Flared Tulips
- PairingBlinis w/ Crème Fraîche & Smoked Salmon
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Through the grapevine
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