From the Wine Shop
V Puro, “Doravante” Branco Bairrada, Portugal 2018 (750mL)
Many of my all-time favorite summer whites (Muscadet; Chablis; Santorini Assyrtiko) have a sneaky way of packing in so much saline minerality and freshness that it’s easy to overlook how beautifully textured and complex they actually are—but it’s impossible to miss “Doravante.” Not only did this quench our thirst with the best of them, it single-handedly inspired us to add it to my warm-weather rotation. This deeply mineral white blend comes from V Puro, the passion project of two forward-thinking vintners who tapped into the incredible potential of Bairrada’s windswept coastal vineyards, limestone-rich clay soils, and fascinating indigenous varieties. Young-vine Arinto is blended with ancient Bical and Cercial vines that reach up to 120 years of age, creating a succulent, citrus-drenched wine with razor-sharp acidity and sea-spray tang. Fewer than 300 cases were produced for the entire globe!
After spontaneous alcoholic and malolactic fermentations, “Doravante” spent 12 months on its lees—the Arinto in stainless steel vats, the Bical and Cercial in neutral French barrels. A tangy mineral streak of gunpowder and smoked sea salt pulses through the wine, with a juicy burst of freshly squeezed lemon and lime. Arinto, which makes up 80 percent of the blend, supplies much of the wine’s vibrant raciness and citrus zest aromatics, while the centenarian Bical and Cercial offer fleshy, aromatic stone fruit and crushed stone austerity. Be sure to grab a few bottles for the cellar: Bairrada whites can age!
- BlendArinto 80%, Bical & Cercial 20%
- OakNeutral French Barrels
- Temp.Serve at 50° F
- GlasswareAll-Purpose Stem
- PairingPortuguese Seafood Cataplana
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Through the grapevine
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