One of the joys of maintaining an ever-curious sommelier mindset is keeping up with both the established and emergent wine regions of the world by continually exploring, tasting, and sharing impressions amongst colleagues. Last month, I landed in the sprawling South of France to revisit the visionaries responsible for unlocking the vast potential of this enormously diverse, talent-rich landscape.
Back in the early 90s, Mas Jullien was one of those responsible for thrusting Languedoc into the international spotlight, and having recently heard his flagship white has been the focal point here for the last decade, I eagerly contacted the importer to arrange a tasting. We received not one bottle but a three-vintage vertical, which immediately booked up our entire afternoon. We decanted them for 90 minutes each, and it was the oldest one, today’s 2016, that emphatically won “wine of the day.” Its kaleidoscopic range of aromas and monumental power, texture, and sense of identity placed us in a speechless state of bliss. I immediately drew comparisons to the great white wines of Chave Hermitage, Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and even Jullien’s fellow cult neighbor, Grange des Pères. But above all, Mas Jullien’s Blanc is a game-changing, unforgettable experience, one that shakes up the established order of profound French wines.
As a boy in the late 70s, Olivier Jullien witnessed the winegrowers’ uprisings in the Languedoc provoked by economic difficulties that beset small, independent farmers. Following decades of producing over-cropped, thoughtless, and inexpensive wine, the Languedoc’s vineyards were in a critical state, coming to a painful but necessary end. The region’s youth wanted nothing more than to leave viticulture behind, but Olivier became one of the region’s great pioneers. In 1985 and barely 20 years old, this ambitious genius, against all odds, converted some of the family farm's outbuildings into a cellar, rented an abandoned one-acre parcel of vines, and began to vinify and bottle his first efforts under the Mas Jullien label. Olivier’s eventual success was such that he inspired his father to withdraw from the local co-op and create his own winery, Mas Cal Demoura, in 1993. Today, Mas Jullien controls over 20 hectares of vines scattered around the village of Jonquières and as far-flung as Saint-Privat, north of Montpellier. The vines grow on the rocky, limestone-clay terraces of the Larzac plateau at the foot of Mont Baudille, planted to elevations reaching 2,800 feet—some of the highest in the region. This entire area is now encompassed by the Terrasses du Larzac AOC, officially designated for red wine only in 2005.
Although his red wines—tour de forces of age-worthy elegance and power—remain unrivaled for their dignity and stature amongst the best of the Languedoc, Olivier refocused his efforts to the domaine’s sole flagship white wine over a decade ago. With his expanded acreage in deeply nestled, high-elevation Saint-Privat, Jullien planted new vines to red and white grape varieties and acquired three rare, old parcels of Carignan Blanc which began to constitute the largest component of the wine. With this effort, he chose to limit the grape varieties to produce a pure and transparent expression of the terroir.
Since 2011, Carignan Blanc (now 70%) has been the majority in the blend, supplemented by Chenin Blanc (30%). From old, deeply rooted vines, the Carignan Blanc brings aromatic impetus, structure, and mineral energy while the Chenin, ultimately well suited to the plateaus of neighboring Aveyron and their slightly cooler temperatures, imparts real finesse and essential freshness. All parcels for the Mas Jullien crus are farmed based on the principles of biodynamic viticulture. The grapes for today’s 2016 were hand-harvested from low-yielding vines, averaging 45-years old. The Carignan Blanc ferments spontaneously, while the Chenin does so with selected yeasts, both in neutral 600-liter demi-muids. Once all fermentations finish, the wine remains in neutral barrels on fine lees for 12 months. The final blend is assembled prior to bottling which occurs after a light filtration.
As suggested earlier, decanting this impressive wine for 90 minutes will allow it to fully expand and express its astounding depth. A temperature of 55 degrees and service in Burgundy stems will provide the optimal environment for enjoyment. To the eye, it carries a pale yellow, light-golden hue with a polished, oily sheen. A tidal wave of rich aromatics slowly unfolds scents of honeysuckle, marzipan, candied lemon, vine peach, dried herbs, fennel, and saffron. There’s a smoky, musky note rising through a veil of salinity. A second pass reveals acacia honey, coriander, toasted macadamia, mirabelle plum, and white flowers. This beguiling procession of fragrance is harmonious and subtle and carries into the medium-full bodied palate that’s balanced and fresh. The glossy palate holds rich flavors of fresh peach, orange oil, grilled nuts, sweet almond, and herbal tea. A substantial, richly layered mouthfeel is highlighted by a gliding balance and rising, slow-motion acidity, quietly framing the lingering aroma and viscous flavor. Note: I intentionally drank it over a three-day period and it continued building flavor and character to the very end! Whether you are a sommelier, an aficionado, or a serious wine lover, create your own luck and don’t let this one pass you by. Cheers!
