From the Wine Shop
Hatzidakis, “Familia” Assyrtiko Santorini, Greece 2019 (750mL)
Coming from organically farmed vines ranging from 15 to 18 years old, the Hatzidakis “Familia”, 100% Assyrtiko is a masterclass on authenticity. While we typically associate oak with pricier, overall finer wines, that’s certainly not the case with Santorini: The best wines here age on their raw lees in stainless steel. “La Familia” fermented on indigenous yeasts, matured for six months in stainless, and was then bottled with low amounts of sulfur so as to best showcase the monumental power, tension, and acidity of Assyrtiko.
It hardly ever rains on Santorini, and there’s no irrigation, so the vines grab what little moisture they can from the sea air. That unique trait is always perceptible in top-shelf Assyrtiko, like this effort. Upon first sip, the taster will be blown back by a powerful defensive line of salty minerality, struck flint, and crushed volcanic rock. But this isn’t lean, angular, or
mean—behind its towering mineral wall lies luxurious notes of white peach, roasted yellow apples, Meyer lemon, pineapple core, candied lime, pink grapefruit, citrus oil, and honeysuckle. In other words, this is an opulent, mineral-loaded white that fills every ounce of your mouth without saturating it. The best wines of the world are all about balance, energy, and precision regardless of ABV or climate, and “Familia” has it all in spades. You’ll be
remembering this one long after the last ounce has been drained.
- Temp.Serve at 55° F
- GlasswareBurgundy Stem
- Decanting30 Minutes
- PairingGreek-Style Grilled Whole Fish
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Through the grapevine
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