La Ferme du Mont, Gigondas “Jugunda” Southern Rhône Valley, France 2016 (750mL)

La Ferme du Mont’s 2016 “Jugunda” gives Gigondas the spotlight it deserves, showing it to be every bit as complex, layered, and elegant as the best Châteauneufs. The only thing—truly the only thing—missing here is about $30 in price. This 2016 has had a few years in bottle to soften, and is now ready to stretch its legs and show off its astonishing aromatic and textural complexity. It’s an 80%-20% blend of Grenache and Syrah, sourced from old, head-trained vines that have a magical way of concentrating just the right amount of sunshine. Yes, it is deeply concentrated and hedonistic—the perfect antidote to a polar vortex, an atmospheric river, or whatever wintry weather you’re experiencing—but it also hums with the kind of lively energy only the greatest Southern Rhône reds are able to harness. It’s liquid sunshine—a category-best wine at an astonishingly good price!