From the Wine Shop
Abbia Nòva, Cesanese del Piglio “Senza Vandalismi” Lazio, Italy 2019 (750mL)
There’s no wine story I like better than that of an obscure native grape variety making a comeback. Italy has so many of these it’s hard to keep track, but we’re trying our best, whether it’s Timorasso from Piedmont, Schioppettino from Friuli, or this ancient Roman specialty, Cesanese. Grown about an hour southeast of Rome in a handful of hill towns in the province of Frosinone, Cesanese is a hot topic among sommeliers, who always perk up when the words “new” and “good” show up in the same sentence—and Abbia Nòva’s “Senza Vandalismi” is both. Today’s 2019 is emblematic of our current wine moment in every way: Its young proprietors are working with heritage plantings of native grape varieties in the most natural manner possible, or, as they say, “without vandalism.”
There’s lots of red fruits—cherries, raspberries, currants—but also some darker blackberry notes, purple flowers, black pepper, and an array of sweet baking spices, like nutmeg. This 2019 is medium-bodied and full of lively energy, another pitch-perfect “trattoria wine” for your table. Decant it at least a half-hour before serving, to let trace CO2 dissipate (keeping some CO2 in solution is an alternative to sulfur), and serve it at 60 degrees in all-purpose red wine stems with something from the Roman trattoria lexicon.
- SoilClay, Limestone, Silt
- FarmingOrganic & Biodynamic
- Temp.Serve at 55-60° F
- GlasswareAll-Purpose Reds
- PairingBucatini all'Amatriciana
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Through the grapevine
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