If you haven’t already succumbed to the ever-more-deafening buzz on social media and gushing praise from the likes of Robert Parker, take my word that Grégoire Hoppenot is the genuine article. He isn’t the next big thing, he’s THE thing! Because when it comes to top-flight, classic, southern Burgundian reds, I’d struggle to name a more riveting contemporary producer. Of course, it doesn’t hurt that Hoppenot’s small stone cellar is just up the hill from the iconic Clos de la Roilette or that he sources his fruit from legendary vineyards within Morgon and Fleurie. But, I suspect the quality in these breathtaking wines is equal parts God-given talent and elite terroir.
Speaking of elite terroir, for anyone looking to bottle world-class wine in Fleurie, there’s hardly another site superior to the ancient hilltop vineyard of “Les Moriers.” In my opinion, this is Fleurie’s most thrilling micro-terroir and, for consecutive vintages, has been the origin of Hoppenot’s most transcendent wine. This 2019 sets a new bar for depth, vivid aromatics, and sublime fruit—be it destined for your cellar or a starring role in this year’s holiday feast, you simply must experience this wine!
Although Grégoire Hoppenot’s wines are new to the US, his reputation precedes him: Before he returned to his Beaujolais birthplace and set up shop in Fleurie, Grégoire was already a star in the cellars of M. Chapoutier in the Rhône. And when it came to the raw material for his Cru wines, he assembled a small but enviable collection of vineyard parcels, including the iconic Morgon site, “Corcelette,” and Fleurie’s majestic “Les Moriers”—the vineyard behind today’s outrageously delicious red. Hoppenot’s Morgon and Fleurie alike have been drooled over by the French wine press and trade, prompting a pitched battle among American importers to see who’d get the chance to bring them here. This coupling of producer and vineyard was truly meant to be: Hoppenot’s farming is meticulous and gentle on the environment, and his methods in the cellar aim for maximum transparency, allowing a profound dose of granitic minerality to mingle with a rich dollop of wild-berry fruit. I’d heard the hype—including raves from Robert Parker—now I’m a believer: My advice is to hoard as much of this as you can before everyone else catches on!
Having worked for many years in more of a négociant (merchant) context, Hoppenot has opted for the more peaceful, less-itinerant life of the vigneron. Not far from his homestead/winery on a ridgetop in Fleurie are some of that village’s top vineyard sites, including “Poncié,” in which Hoppenot has a monopole (sole ownership) called “Clos de l’Amandier.” Hoppenot’s parcel in Morgon’s “Corcelette,” meanwhile, comprises less than a hectare at 400 meters. It’s quite steep, or as Hoppenot himself puts it, “…a real wall.” But for me, the grand award must go to today’s Fleurie “Les Moriers.” This ancient, weathered site sits overlooking the village of Fleurie. Mineral-rich soils and open exposure to the sun produces Cru Beaujolais of singular intensity, restrained power, and remarkable aromatic detail. It’s truly a wine for the ages.
I always like to repeat Hoppenot’s description of his winemaking style as being “sans fard” (“without makeup”). Because what could be better than pure, unadulterated terroir? I love it, and rest assured that today’s “sans fard” Fleurie was fermented on ambient yeasts in concrete vats, then aged eight months in a combination of tanks and used 228-liter Burgundy barrels. From the moment the cork is pulled, it’s a storm of forest berries, plummy red fruit, and pretty wildflowers. But, do not mistake it for fruity, “simple Beaujolais”—on the contrary, it’s a wine of immense detail, structure, and complexity. For me, it speaks far more loudly of Burgundian terroir than varietal Gamay fruit. Given its tender age, this bottle will benefit from 30+ minutes in a decanter, after which it starts to really sing at 60 degrees in a Burgundy glass (preferably alongside a seared duck breast or steak au poivre!), but my heart goes out to anyone who attempts to take their time with this bottle! It is just so irresistibly delicious, but a word the wise: Like his neighbor Clos de la Roilette, Hoppenot produces Fleurie of uncommon cellar potential, and you can rest assured that this bottle will be delivering the fireworks for at least 5-8 years to come. Cheers!
