I believe today’s special offering should be a requirement for everyone who subscribes to SommSelect because, unless you’re frequenting the finest French establishments, crossing paths with a wine of this caliber, age, provenance, and (low) price is largely a thing of the past. Honestly, today’s 26-year-old transcendental red offers the most vivid snapshot of mature, old-school Châteauneuf-du-Pape I’ve seen in years. Yes, years.
Admittedly, I practice extreme caution when it comes to CdP these days because many have succumbed to the high-octane, overly ripe formula that fuels critics’ high scores. Those wines are not for me. In fact, I downright shun them while embracing the few producers who ignored mainstream media and instead preserved their traditional values. These authentic, “old-fashioned” Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers are a welcomed rarity, but finding one with decades of age and a $70 price tag (that’s $2.70 per year) is like emerging with a single needle from a field full of haystacks. It’s everything one craves in an old, perfectly preserved French red, all for the going price of a current-release CdP. Cabrières’ importer was only able to finesse a small amount of today’s 1994 out of the château, so take up to six bottles and treat every single one with the veneration it deserves!
Based on antique discoveries at the estate and era-specific architectural designs, it’s safe to assume Château Cabrières was first built somewhere around the 13th or 14th century! As for contemporary times, three generations of the Arnaud family have served as the custodians of this historic property. All of their crop was sold off to négociants up until 1955, when first-generation Louis Arnaud decided to produce, bottle, and sell their own wine. Since then, their holdings have grown to a respectable ~30 hectares, of which contain all authorized grape varieties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and vines that range from 17 to 119 years of age!
Averaging 300 days of sun and a strong “mistral” that blows for 120, CdP enjoys a fascinating push-pull of heat and cooling wind that makes it is among the most fascinating climates on earth. Add on its rich diversity of soils and famed round stones (galets) and it becomes quite clear why this famous terroir was France’s first-ever appellation. Another way to understand this would be to open a bottle of today’s “Cuvée Tradition.”
The Arnauds practice sustainable farming, harvest is always manual, and yields are kept shockingly low to ensure only the best grapes make it to the cellar. A month-long fermentation is carried out separately, both by grape variety and parcel, and aging occurs in French barrels for 12 months. This 1994 relies heavily on Grenache (50%), substantial portions of Syrah and Mourvèdre, and a touch of Cinsault to provide a brilliant, savory snapshot of traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge.
Cabrières’ 1994 pours a dusty dark ruby in the glass moving out to a thin brick orange band on the rim. Truly, this might be as good as it gets for 25+-year-old CdP under $75. Within minutes of opening up in a Bordeaux stem around 65 degrees, mature and highly seductive notes roll out: dried black raspberry, cassis, dried plums, sour cherries, violets, rose petal, licorice, sage, old leather, garrigue, fired clay, crushed stone, cracked pepper, roasted game. The palate does indicate an evolved French red, but one that’s exquisite, exceptionally balanced, and highly intelligent. This is not an old, one-dimensional wine! On the contrary, you’ll find deep, ultra-savory layers of dried herbs and dusty fruit, a strong core of crushed minerals, and gamey/leathery undertones. I recommend enjoying your bottle within 2-3 hours of opening and preserving your others for consumption over the next few years. Cheers!
