The Saumur-Champigny AOC, in the Loire Valley, experienced a huge jump in notoriety when the billionaire Bouygues brothers, owners of Bordeaux’s Château Montrose, purchased the legendary Clos Rougeard. But the rising tide of recognition has yet to lift all the worthy boats in this appellation, which is why you can still obtain the outstanding wines of Le Petit Saint-Vincent at bargain prices.
It’s not just Clos Rougeard, folks, it’s the terroir—arguably the greatest in the world for the beguiling Cabernet Franc grape. Le Petit Saint-Vincent is Exhibit A in our case for lavishing more attention on this region: The wines are simply exceptional, especially for the price. We have offered multiple wines from winemaker Dominique Joseph in the past (including this cuvée) and every time we are offered another parcel, we pounce. His 2017 “Pélo” was every bit as delicious as we expected upon tasting, achieving what the truly great Cabernet Francs can offer: Burgundian elegance with Bordelais depth. Given its dynamic combination of complexity, refreshment, terroir expression, and value, the fact that this is their entry-level offering is a testament to the high bar that Joseph sets at this estate. This is, dollar for dollar, one of the best values you will find coming out of the Loire Valley—actually, make that all of France. It’s that good.
While there are other factors in play, there’s wide agreement that it is the soft-textured, yellowish limestone tuffeau soils that gives Saumur-Champigny reds their exceptional brightness and perfumed aromatics. Neighboring appellations of Chinon and Bourgueil contain soils that are more mixed, incorporating more silt and gravel. On the whole, the wines of Saumur-Champigny tend to be more delicate expressions of Cabernet Franc, with more emphasis on dark cherry fruit and violet/rose petal florals and less on the meatier, bell-peppery characteristics of the grape. Le Petit Saint Vincent is among the growing list of amazing producers in the area that have elevated Saumur-Champigny to near cult status among sommeliers and wine professionals in recent years, along with such luminaries as Domaine Guiberteau, Clos Rougeard (located in the town over from Le Petit Saint Vincent) and Domaine des Roches Neuve (located down the block).
Dominique Joseph (a.k.a. Pélo, a childhood nickname) is the fourth generation at Le Petit Saint Vincent, working out of a stunning, multi-chambered cellar carved from the local tuffeau. He was an early convert to organic farming since taking over the domaine in 1990 and has been certified for the last decade. His eponymous wine, today’s “Pélo”, is sourced from 50-year-old vines around the village of Varrains located in the heart of Saumur-Champigny; the fruit is 100% de-stemmed and fermented in concrete vats after a 22-30 day maceration (which helps to explain the wine’s vibrant, deep color). It is later aged in mostly concrete and small amounts of 3 to 5-year-old barriques for about 12 months before bottling.
There’s something about fermentation/aging in concrete that lends red wines a kind of wooly softness, adding supple texture without the extra weight and flavor proffered by oak. The 2017 Pélo, therefore, shows its natural fruit and color with gusto. In the glass the wine is a deep ruby/purple moving to magenta at the rim. The nose offers a luxurious mix of deep fruits and savory elements like black raspberry, huckleberry, black plums, tobacco leaf, licorice, leather, violets, lavender, cracked pepper, crushed gravel, and turned earth. It is brisk and fresh on the palate, medium-bodied and silky, though containing a meaty, black-fruited core that finishes with more violets. I suggest a 30-minute decant before serving in Burgundy stems (Cabernet Franc traditionally gets Bordeaux glasses but the aromatics here are so varied and delicate, I prefer Burgundy bowls). With its structure and terroir depth, I can see this wine aging for at least 5 years, but I hesitate recommending to wait that long, unless you have multiple bottles. At 55-60 degrees, this wine should shine with its earthy underpinnings and delicate aromatic top notes. I can imagine drinking this with any number of dishes, versatile as it is, but something simple and rustic seems appropriate, like sausage and lentils or a grilled hanger steak. Whatever the accompaniment, you won’t be disappointed. Enjoy!
