Vöcal Vineyards, “Bates Ranch” Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Cruz Mountains, California 2017 (750mL)

There’s no denying that 51-year-old, head-trained, dry-farmed Cabernet just...hits differently, as we were gloriously reminded upon tasting Vöcal Vineyards’ sublimely elegant Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon. It shouldn’t have been surprising, considering this bottle
hails from the Santa Cruz Mountains, home to some of the most iconic Cabernet Sauvignons ever made (think Ridge and Mount Eden). Bates Ranch is nestled on the backside of Mount Madonna at the Southern end of the mountain range, where it’s lasted four generations. Bates Ranch enjoys the same ingredients for success as the nearby Montebello Ridge: Pacific breezes, sun-drenched days, and crisp, cold nights. We recommend decanting this 2017 for 30 minutes to an hour before serving in Bordeaux stems and admiring the intoxicating notes of pomegranate juice, potting soil, and roasted red peppers that rise to meet you. The palate is refined, taut, and remarkably finessed for a young Californian
Cabernet Sauvignon. Perhaps it’s the maturity of the vines that strikes that perfect balance between hedonistic notes of currants and huckleberry and spicier hints of toasted cocoa nibs. The poise and purity in this wine will stun you.