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Christoph Edelbauer, Grüner Veltliner “Neuberg” Reserve

Kamptal, Austria 2016 (750mL)
Regular price$45.00
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Christoph Edelbauer, Grüner Veltliner “Neuberg” Reserve

When tasting through ascendant Austrian superstar Christoph Edelbauer’s current vintage, one quickly gets the sense that something extremely special is occurring in this small cellar. It doesn’t hurt that these are among the most eye-catching bottles originating from Austria, or that Edelbauer is one of the more eloquent and telegenic winegrowers to command attention on social media. But, take my word that this producer’s success isn’t a figment of marketing—it’s the product of Grand Cru-equivalent terroir and a lasting reputation for astonishingly complex and undeniably world-class wine!


Be it breathtakingly elegant sparkling wines, deep and soulful Pinot Noir, or perfectly chiseled dry Riesling, it seems as if everything Christoph touches turns to gold. But because export volumes of all Edelbauer wines are carefully limited at the cellar door, this is the first time SommSelect has had the opportunity to acquire a significant allocation. So, there’s a triumphant buzz in the office this morning, and we’re celebrating the occasion with our favorite current release, the 2016 Gruner Veltliner Reserve “Neuberg.” This bottle is a work of art, and living proof that this micro-estate is bottling some of the most thought-provoking wines in Austria. For lovers of the finest Premier Cru Chablis and dry Chenin Blanc, or any sommelier wishing to drink the absolute cutting edge of European white wine, this is one monster of a bottle with a price that belies its superlative quality and elite reputation.


Before digging into the avalanche of online praise or reading any more of my personal interpretation of Christoph Edelbauer’s remarkable property, I encourage you to visit the winery’s website. There, you can behold the Dwell Magazine-worthy architecture, the awe inspiring beauty of the surrounding landscape, and the concise but no-less-magnificent collection of parcels in many of Langenlois’ (the geographic heart of Austria’s Kamptal region) grandest crus. But, more than anything, I suspect you will appreciate that Edelbauer’s world class wines are the result of an obsession with small scale, artisan craftsmanship. Every decision at this property is made with thought and intent. The certified organic operation produces its own organic compost, all work is done by-hand, and all activity in the vineyard and cellar is optimized for quality and pure expression of terroir—not growth or maximum profit. Of course, success is almost a given when one is bottling wines that taste (let alone look!) this exceptional, but the overriding sense of any visit to Weingut Christoph Edelbauer is that it is an environment dedicated not to growth or commerce, but genuine genuine artistry and craftsmanship.



It doesn’t take a degree in enology to immediately recognize what makes today’s 2016 Gruner Veltliner Reserve so special. The vineyard of this wine’s origin, Ried Neuberg, sits high atop a plateau at 1,000 feet elevation: Out of all Chrisoph Edelbauer’s crus, Neuberg is the first and last site to receive sun each day. Vine age hovers around a 40-year average, and the classic Loess-dominated soil, along with small amounts of alumina and gravel soil, make for a uniquely special site for Gruner Veltliner. Juice is fermented on skins for 48 hours, then aged on lees in tank for a year, followed by extended aging in bottle (with zero filtration) before release. And let’s not forget the physical packaging: Every bottle of Edelbauer is heavy, high quality glass, and the property uses state-of-the-art enclosures or high-grade corks that mitigate risk of TCA (“cork taint”) while ensuring optimal freshness and evolution in the cellar. Combined with Christoph Edelbauer’s handwritten script, it’s a uniquely handsome and elegant package that predicts the character of the wine itself. I don’t typically dedicate so much text to the appearance of a wine SommSelect offers, but hey, this is no typical bottle—it really is a work of art!  



In the glass, green and golden-yellow tones collide as an initial explosion of shattered stone, dense citrus and pitted fruit aromas erupt. Seconds later, the fireworks begin as exotic white mushrooms, honeycomb, white truffle and wet stone notes come to the forefront. There is a vividness and palpability to this wine’s aromatic profiles that clearly puts it in the upper tier Austrian white wines. But to be clear, this is not run-of-the-mill textbook Gruner Veltliner. Today’s 2016 Reserve “Neuberg” is a more expressive, free spirited incarnation of Austrian’s most noble indigenous variety.  In the absence of filtration, synthetic yeasts and heavy-handed intervention, Christoph Edelbauer has unleashed a more exotic and unique example of Gruner Veltliner, one that other producers would be wise to look to for inspiration. This wine sings at 50 degrees in large Bordeaux stems and due to its 3+ years of age requires zero time in the decanter. It’s an impressively dexterous and dynamic partner to sashimi and poached shellfish as it is a classic companion to veal schnitzel (or venison loin, as suggested by Christoph!).  In truth, with a wine this exceptional, you don’t need to overthink it.  Simply pull the cork and let the wine do the rest! Cheers.
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Austria

Northeastern Austria

Weinviertel

Considered by most to be the oldest growing zone in Austria, Weinviertel is also, geographically, the largest in the country and covers the vast, northeastern expanse of Lower Austria, stretching from the western border of Slovakia, following the Danube inland and veering up to the southern border of Czechia. Its name, which translates to “wine quarter,” reflects the region’s rich, ancient wine heritage and, according to the Weinviertel DAC website, there are “7,000 years of artifacts to prove it.”

Northeastern Austria

Wachau

Austria’s Wachau appellation is the country’s most acclaimed region. About an hour northwest of Vienna along the Danube River, the vista of the steep, terraced vineyards of the Wachau creates a magnificent landscape akin to a verdant, ancient amphitheater—it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, after all. With rich and unique soils here of löess and gneiss, which lend vivid minerality to the wine.

Eastern Austria

Burgenland

The Burgenland appellation, running along Austria’s border with Hungary southeast of Vienna, has a diverse topography and a mix of soils, with more primary rock and slate at higher locations and dense loams in the rolling hills that extend toward the Pannonian plain.

Southeastern Austria

Steiermark

The region of Styria (Steiermark) is in southeastern Austria which sits near the border with Slovenia. This area is studded with long-extinct volcanoes whose deposits are a key component of the local soils and the vineyards benefit from a classic Austrian push-pull of cool Alpine air and warmer “Pannonian” currents from the east.

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