When I think about the wines of Chambolle-Musigny, I think about Burgundian Pinot Noir at its ‘prettiest’—red-fruited, floral, fine-boned, nuanced. That’s also what I think of when I think of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or, whose most famous reds hail from another village known for enchantingly perfumed and long-lived Pinot: Volnay.
Burgundy experts have remarked on the kindred qualities of these villages, even though Chambolle is in the Côte de Nuits and Volnay in the Côte de Beaune, so when the dynamic owner of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or, Benoît Landanger, acquired vineyards in Chambolle in 2008, it made sense. The historic Pousse d’Or property will always be associated first and foremost with Volnay, but the Chambolle-Musigny wines Landanger is producing share the same aristocratic styling, the same keen attention to detail, and the same biodynamic farming that has made this domaine one of the most critically acclaimed labels in all of Burgundy. This is an elite property in every way, right down to its regal manor house in Volnay, yet for all the investment and personal attention Landanger has lavished on it since acquiring it in 1997, prices have not shot into the stratosphere. Today’s seductive ’17 carries a “village” designation but performs at a Premier Cru level (at least), which is the mark of an elite producer—the ability to exceed expectations. In fact, I’d put it another way: My expectation is that a Pousse d’Or wine will over-perform, and, in the context of wine/producers of this level, $95 is a small price to pay for it. If you’d like to add an appreciating wine asset to your portfolio, take up to six bottles today and cherish them over the next decade-plus!
There’s a lot of history behind La Pousse d’Or, which mutated from “Bousse d’Or” (“golden earth”) to “Pousse” over the centuries—although the “B” is still used for the historic “Clos de la Bousse d’Or” vineyard, one of the estate’s three Premier Cru monopoles (one-owner vineyards) in Volnay. Although these vineyards and the cellars go back to the time of the Cistercian monks in Burgundy, the modern era of La Pousse d’Or (1960s-1990s) was shaped by the legendary Gérard Potel, from whom Landanger purchased the property in ’97. Landanger had been in the manufacturing business but has since jumped headlong into wine, studying enology in Beaune and investing not only in facilities but, more critically, vineyards—he didn’t just buy vineyards (increasing the estate’s total holdings to 46 acres), but implemented organic and biodynamic farming practices, achieving Demeter certification in 2018. This is a very serious operation making very serious wines, and they’re doing it the right way!
Today’s 2017 is sourced from seven tiny parcels within Chambolle-Musigny, two of which are classified Premier Cru, with vine ages ranging from 30 to 60 years. Hand-harvested fruit is carefully de-stemmed and fermented on native yeasts in stainless steel, before being moved to French oak barriques (20% new) for 18 months. This is a spotless, sophisticated winery, but it is also one that embraces traditional, natural winemaking techniques: wines are moved by gravity only, bottled according to the phases of the moon, and treated with as little added sulfur as is possible. This wine exhibits crystalline clarity and beautiful Pinot Noir purity, and is poised to evolve beautifully for 10-15 years at a minimum; you know you’re experiencing greatness when you take your first sip!
In the glass, the wine displays a bright ruby-garnet core moving to pink at the rim, with brightly perfumed aromas of woodland berries, wild strawberry, cranberry—pretty much every berry you can imagine—along with wet rose petals, sandalwood spice, pekoe tea, underbrush, and a touch of leather. It is medium-bodied and focused, with a firm backbone which will soften over time and allow more sweet cherry fruit to spill forth. If you’re enjoying a bottle now, decant it about 45 minutes before serving at 60-65 in Burgundy stems. Its finessed style makes it a great choice for pork or chicken dishes, or, when the time comes, Thanksgiving turkey. Maybe take a turkey trial run now? Check out the attached recipe and enjoy this blue-chip Burgundy!
