Bouard-Bonnefoy’s parcel of the “Les Vergers” Premier Cru was planted to 100 percent Chardonnay in 1996. It’s positioned a little higher up the slope, between 700-800 feet, with a due-east exposition and a fairly rocky soil combination. The name Vergers means “orchard,” recalling a time—not that long ago—when that portion of Chassagne was dotted with fruit trees. Within the Bouard-Bonnefoy lineup (which includes bottling from four other Chassagne Premier Crus), Les Vergers is perhaps the most linear and mineral of the group, and in ’17 they’ve crafted a version that feels like it’s vibrating with nervous energy. You can feel the underlying concentration in the wine as well—in about 5-7 years time, when this wine enters its prime drinking window, it is going to be downright explosive!

 In the glass, the 2019 ‘Les Vergers’ shines bright gold, flecked through with green. The first whiff is all yellow fruits—Mirabelle plums, ripe Meyer lemons, and tart apple skin. The palate is both fruitier and more acidic, with notes of yellow apple, honeycomb, and crushed stone. The minerality is quintessential Chassagne: a combination of chalk and oyster that lingers long after you’ve put down the glass. It’s ripe without ever feeling opulent, weighty without ever feeling heavy. ‘Les Vergers’ is held up by a fine, acidic backbone that promises another 10-20 years of graceful evolution. But try the first bottle tonight with a warm, buttery lobster roll and a generous wedge of lemon. It’s one of the greatest (and most straightforward) food pairings you’ll ever enjoy!