Although international recognition has been more recent, Domaine Arlaud dates to the 1940s, when Joseph Arlaud married Renée Amiot, whose family owned several prime Burgundy vineyards, including pieces of the Clos St. Denis and Bonnes Mares Grand Crus. Joseph’s son Hervé followed, expanding the domaine’s holdings further, and these days it’s Hervé’s son, Cyprien, who runs the show (he ‘officially’ took the reins in 2013). Perhaps the hallmark achievement of Cyprien’s tenure has been his conversion of the domaine to biodynamic farming (certified in 2014). The family’s cherished vineyards are ploughed by horse, and as one of Arlaud’s importers has noted, Cyprien’s sister, Bertille, has become “one of the most important horse-plowers in France.” Over the years, I’ve visited hundreds of wineries, and there are certain producers where everything is perfectly tidy and “just so,” both in the vineyards and cellar. This is one of those wineries.

 

Cyprien’s approach in the cellar is described as “non-interventionist.” His cold cave, located in the village of Morey-St-Denis, enables him to minimize his use of sulfur, and his wines undergo very long, slow fermentations started only with native yeasts. Further distinguishing today’s Roncevie bottling is the fact that some of Arlaud’s vines in the site are nearing 60 years of age (they were planted by Joseph Arlaud). The 2017 Roncevie was fermented on native yeasts in concrete tanks, then aged about a year in mostly used barrels before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. In the glass, it’s a bright, transluscent ruby-garnet moving to pink at the rim, with perfumed aromas of red and black cherries, currants, raspberries…just about anything you might pluck off a bush in the middle of a misty forest. High-toned floral notes of rose petals and violets, as well as subtle baking-spice notes, are layered in as well. Medium-bodied and refreshingly lively and persistent on the palate, this has deceptive structure to it as well; it drinks beautifully now with 30-60 minutes in a decanter, but should really unfold and add some attractive flesh over the next 3-5 years. Serve it at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems with roast pork, chicken, turkey, and leaner red meat cuts, emphasizing some of the flavors of Fall. Attached is a very appropriate recipe for the season, and the wine. Get the 2017 Roncevie ‘in-house’ and give it a try!