This 2016 "Monvigliero" is a best-of-both-worlds proposition: By Nebbiolo standards, it is plush and accessible now (with about 30-60 minutes of air, of course), but it has impeccable balance for 15-20 years of graceful aging. The more I taste Barolo the more I realize that it’s the balanced wines, not the heavily tannic wines, that are best-equipped for long-term cellaring. But I doubt I’ll wait that long to revisit this one: In the glass, it’s a deep garnet-red moving to pink and a hint of orange at the rim, with juicy aromas of black cherry, raspberry, wild strawberry, sandalwood, grilled herbs, blood orange peel, dried rose petals, leather, tar, and tobacco. It is medium-plus in body, with very fine-grained, firm tannins and lots of freshness lending it a very straight-backed posture. It’s a very aristocratic, high-toned take on Nebbiolo, really something special after some time in a big Burgundy stem. Serve it at 60-65 degrees one winter’s evening soon, with something holiday-ish like a crown roast of pork; this wine is worth a little extra effort in the kitchen. Enjoy!