Around every corner in Champagne, it seems, is a new and important discovery—as evidenced by today's grower-producer, whose latest release has been eagerly anticipated here at SommSelect headquarters.
A leisurely 15-minute drive due west of Reims will land you in the absurdly photogenic town of Gueux. As you enter the commune limits along the D27, you’ll find yourself flanked by ad-plastered grandstands; this portion of road was used as a Grand Prix circuit in years past, and it is here where you’ll find one of Champagne’s most coveted cult wines: Jérôme Prévost’s single-vineyard, 100% Pinot Meunier bottling “Les Beguines.” Heading south another mile will put you in Vrigny—made famous by Egly-Ouriet’s old-vine bottling of Meunier, “Les Vignes de Vrigny.” And less than a mile further still is Coulommes-La-Montagne, home of fifth-generation grower-producer Pascal Ponson. This north-south stretch is known as ‘Petite Montagne,’ where the Pinot Meunier grape is considered king. The best wines here are full of ripe, intense fruit backed with incredible freshness, and Pascal Ponson is the value name to know. Their “Prestige” is a leading example of this emerging area and the expressiveness of Pinot Meunier at an unbeatable price. For me, it ranks among the very top Champagnes under $40 ever offered on SommSelect.
Champagne Pascal Ponson has been a culmination of five generations who have handled every aspect of their production, from soil to bottle. The village of Coulommes-La-Montagne, less than 10 miles outside of the epicenter of Reims, is home to their family-run estate and all of their vineyard holdings are within Premier Cru designations. Currently, Maxime Ponson is the man in charge, and he is passionate about crafting Champagnes that compete with the greats of Petite Montagne while retaining a “grower mentality.”
Despite Champagne being known for its chalky soils, there are only small traces here in the Petite Montagne. In its place is sand, calcareous clay, and limestone—although this varies from village to village. With this diversity of soil and influx of passionate growers, Pinot Meunier is ready for its very own renaissance and, like Ponson and its aforementioned contemporaries, the excitement behind the grape is building—no longer is it considered “just a blending grape.” Using only Premier Cru fruit from Petite Montagne villages, Ponson’s “Prestige” is a blend of 80% Pinot Meunier, 10% Pinot Noir, and 10% Chardonnay. After aging a minimum of three years on its lees, it received a dosage (sugar addition) of 10 grams per liter, lending to its rich and textured style. It was disgorged in 2016.
This wine displays a brilliant straw-yellow core with light gold and green reflections on the rim. Rich and creamy aromas of red and yellow apple, quince, lemon blossom, white mushroom, honeysuckle, hazelnut, and delicate purple flowers are woven around a strong core of mineral notes. Compared to last year’s disgorgement, the wine matches its rich body, but delivers an added layer of dense and creamy fruit, giving it a textured, yet ethereal feel—that’s the power of ripe Meunier. Most Pinot Meunier Champagnes are built for early consumption (there are great exceptions, of course) an this one is absolutely ready to open now, although it will drink well over the next handful of years. This wine should ideally be served between 50-55 degrees in a wide-mouthed Champagne tulip or simply a white wine stem. For a pairing, don’t limit yourself to one option—this is a versatile wine. Whip up the attached smoked salmon canapés along with a platter of cold cuts and various cheeses. You can’t go wrong!
