Weingut Karl Erbes, “Ürziger Würzgarten” Riesling Spätlese
Weingut Karl Erbes, “Ürziger Würzgarten” Riesling Spätlese

Weingut Karl Erbes, “Ürziger Würzgarten” Riesling Spätlese

Mosel, Germany 2017 (750mL)
Regular price$22.00
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Weingut Karl Erbes, “Ürziger Würzgarten” Riesling Spätlese

On the red-wine side, I’ve said many times that it’s hard to beat Bordeaux for logic-defying value. And when it comes to white wines, nothing can touch German Riesling. Just how much history, exceptional terroir, and hands-on craftsmanship can one estate pack into a $25 bottle of wine? The answer is on shimmering, awe-inspiring display in this Spätlese-level bottling from the tiny Weingut Karl Erbes. 


Yes, this is a traditional spätlese from the spectacular Mosel River Valley, meaning it contains some residual sweetness, but, thanks to the magic of both the Mosel region and the Riesling grape, it doesn’t really behave like a “sweet” wine. This is an abundantly fruity and astoundingly aromatic wine with so much finishing acidity that any residual sweetness is spirited away faster than you can say the name of the source vineyard: “Ürziger Würzgarten.” As some of you may know, this grosse lage (“grand cru”) site in the Mosel village of Ürzig features one of the most dramatically steep pitches and perfect southern exposures of any in the region, and the Erbes family is blessed with well-placed old vines reaching 80 years of age. Wondering how a spätlese of this pedigree can be had for such a negligible price? It’s partly because of our ongoing direct-import relationship with the estate, but really, most of the credit goes to Stefan Erbes and his family’s five-decade history in this same special place. You couldn’t ask for a more perfect wine for summer—it’s incredibly versatile with food, refreshingly low in alcohol, and just flat-out delicious. Load up!



Like most vintners in the Mosel, they’re taking great risks growing grapes—and subsequently harvesting them—on extremely steep slopes. But it so happens that Erbes’s slopes are better positioned than most, with ideal (if steep) angles that catch maximum ripening sunlight throughout the growing season. Ürziger Würzgarten (“the spice garden of Ürzig) is one of those frighteningly steep, amphitheater-like vineyard panoramas the Mosel does so well, and its unique, rust-hued slate soils make it easy to spot. In total, the Erbes family farms just 4.5 hectares of vineyards, split between Ürziger Würzgarten and the equally acclaimed “Erdener Treppchen.” All their vines are non-grafted Riesling, the oldest between 70 and 80 years old.


Today’s ’17 carries a traditional spätlese (“late-harvest”) designation, which, as Riesling lovers know, is the second rung on the ladder of ripeness levels defined by Germany’s prädikat system. Note I said “ripeness,” not “sweetness” levels: It’s an important distinction, because, while this wine does indeed contain residual sugar, it is in no way “sugary.” This is perfectly ripe Riesling that has a substantial, even slightly viscous, presence on the palate—before a tsunami of acidity rolls through and cleanses the palate.


Stefan Erbes provides some valuable insight into what makes Ürziger Würzgarten special, noting that its iron-rich combination of slate and sandstone produces wines of substantial body and length. “The steep slate location provides another key advantage in rather wet periods,” he continues. “Rain and moisture quickly seep into the ground here, but are prevented by the many stones from forming channels and washing away the ground. Erosion and waterlogging are foreign words here. This combination of medium-to-deep, very stony slate soils and exposure to the south with intense sunshine leads to a wine that is unique in the world with a full-bodied, fruity character and an intense mineral aftertaste.” I couldn’t have said it better myself!


In the glass, Erbes’ 2017 Ürziger Würzgarten Spätlese is a bright straw yellow with silver-green reflections at the rim, announcing itself as only great Riesling can—with an exotic explosion of yellow peach, pear, white flowers, a hint of ‘petrol,’ and lots of wet stone minerality. Think about the perfect, drippingly ripe summer peach and you’ve got a good idea of the impact of the wine on the palate. No other white wine in the world offers this mixture of complexity, fruit concentration, and lively refreshment. Serve this between 45-50 degrees to really bring out its aromatics, as its sugar is so well-moderated you won’t need it any colder (sometimes we advise serving German Rieslings a touch colder to tamp down the effects of residual sugar). And, of course, the food pairing possibilities are practically limitless. Try it alongside a Thai green curry—whether you make it yourself or order in—then you can check the “food friendly” box, too!

Weingut Karl Erbes, “Ürziger Würzgarten” Riesling Spätlese
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Germany

Western Germany

Pfalz

The Pfalz is Germany’s second-largest wine region (behind Rheinhessen, which it borders to the south). The vineyards are situated between the thickly forested Haardt Mountains and the western bank of the Rhine River, with soils that are rich in loam mixed with sandstone, loess (wind-blown silt), and chalky clay.

Western Germany

Rheinhessen

he Rheinhessen is Germany’s largest-production wine zone and, in comparison to some of the dramatic valleys further north, is a more open landscape of gently rolling hills.

Western Germany

Saar

The Saar River is a tributary of the Mosel (and in-cluded in the broader “Mosel-Saar-Ruwer”) PDO designation with vineyards perched on steep slopes of blue Devonian slate. The rocky soils and cool temperatures of these northerly valleys produce Germany’s most chiseled, high-acid  styles of Riesling.

Southwestern Germany

Baden

Baden, Germany’s southernmost wine region, has a long history with the “Pinot” family. The region’s vineyards were planted by the same Cistercian Monks who established Pinot Noir in Burgundy. Bordered by the Rhine River and the Black Forest, Baden has diverse soils—everything from loess (silt) to volcanic tuff to limestone, the most prized Pinot Noir soil of all.

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