One of the many things I love about the wine business is witnessing the progression of a wine estate from one generation to the next—especially when the continuation of tradition comes with an elevated level of quality. Lately, such generational shifts have signaled a new, or redoubled, commitment to sustainability in the vineyards, which to me is the most surefire path to success.
Enter Château Guipière, a new-generation Loire Valley phenom whose prices remain frozen in the past. This 18th-century domaine has been in the hands of its talented new proprietors, Philippe Nevoux and Stéphane Gouraud, since 2015, and let’s just say the march of progress has been brisk. In addition to renovating the many ancient buildings on the property, Philippe and Stéphane have poured considerable energy into the revitalization of the vineyards, protecting their biodiversity with a strict organic viticultural regime. The results are on full display in today’s 2018 “Clos des Morinières” Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine. This is a single-site wine from 35-year-old vines planted in silty-sandy soil on deeply layered, mica-schist subsoil. Terroir-driven, age-worthy, “serious” Muscadet is the new normal, and Guipière’s dynamic duo has got there rather quickly. To say we were “excited” to import this wine directly, and offer it at this rock-bottom price, is soft-pedaling it: These ambitious, loyal growers are writing a new chapter for their old region.
The mouth of France’s Loire River is a broad, windswept place where land meets the Atlantic horizon. Just a few miles inland, the landscape undergoes a drastic change into a secret country of trees, rivers, villages, and lots of vineyards. Here, just southeast of the city of Nantes, straddling the Sèvre and Maine (two tributaries of the Loire) growers are reinventing the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine appellation. Sure, there’s an ocean of ‘big-brand’ Muscadet out there, often made by behemoth producers, intended for early consumption. But this segment does not represent Muscadet’s destiny. In the last 10-15 years, dedicated producers have demonstrated, through conscientious farming and meticulous production, a new narrative for Muscadet and its Melon de Bourgogne grape. The key to these reinventors’ success was showcasing the multifaceted terroir of Sèvre-et-Maine through the transparency of the Melon variety. The wines are now so much more complex, with loads of nuance and deep minerality.
With almost 15,000 acres of vines, it’s one of the most densely planted appellations in France, containing myriad soil types. Gneiss. Mica schist. Gabbro. Granite. Amphibolite. These are the names of the appellation’s base rocks—what the French call roche mère (mother rock). Melon de Bourgogne is a true grape of terroir. It’s reflective of the soil’s character and is heavily influenced by the surrounding climatic conditions. With the diverse mosaic of soils and base rocks, the grape yields an impressive variety of styles from light and fruity to rich and mineral. Most Muscadet wines are aged on their lees—the yeast cells left over after fermentation—and then bottled directly off those lees (look for the term “sur lie” on label). This treatment gives an extra intensity and richness, as well as a light pepper and slightly creamy character. In high-quality Muscadet, texture and stony flavors resound, echoing back and forth. Aromas and flavors are clearly pronounced: lemon, lime, anise, and other herbs, occasionally a chamomile or saline sensation.
The terroir of the Château Guipière vineyards is heavily composed of mica schist and amphibolite. The grapes are entirely hand-harvested, fermented naturally in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine remains on its fine less for six months prior to bottling. The soundbites from reputable growers regarding the 2018 vintage in Muscadet range from “exceptional” to “legendary”, claiming the wines display “both tension and breadth” with comparisons made to 1947 and 1990. Alrighty!
This ’18 “Clos des Morinières” is only typical in appearance, displaying a straw-yellow hue with green highlights. A roller coaster of aromas ensues, with diving and rising notes of fresh lime, wild peach, white flowers, crème fraîche, and fennel followed by a blast of wet stone and mineral. The palate is generous and caressing, pushing flavors of stone fruits, fresh pear, and honeydew melon with a patina of lees aging. It finishes with a refreshing, lingering mineral acidity. Chill this down to the 40-45°F range and wake it up with multiple swirls in all-purpose white stems. Don’t dare to confine this multi-dimensional scene-stealer to the ho-hum, perfunctory pairing of chilled oysters. Toss out the rule book and create a new list including spicy arugula with warm, ashed-herbed chèvre, grilled prawns, crispy fish tacos, hickory-smoked chicken thighs, or rotisserie “skin on” pork shoulder. Enjoy!
