With accolades like “Best Winemaker in Germany” and “Best White Wine in the World,” Schäfer-Fröhlich has become a premier Nahe address in a quarter-century’s time; it’s all thanks to Tim Fröhlich. Like most producers in the Nahe, which is surrounded by Rheinhessen, Rheingau, and the Mosel, the bulk of Tim’s production is Riesling. His GGs are lithe, powerful Rieslings that are unabashedly jam-packed with flavor. The 2021 “Stromberg” is no exception.

A veritable soil savant, Tim is able to coax the most out of his vines with a meticulous touch, no matter the vintage. The Stromberg vineyard in the town of Bockenau was initially purchased by Tim’s uncle, and its old, ungrafted vines cling to a steep slope rich in volcanic porphyry soil. Low yields, hand harvesting, and an emphasis on stainless steel aging also contribute to the purity and intensity of these wines. 

While tasting this bottle, I was texting Schäfer’s importer and, for whatever reason, sent tasting notes in the style of someone starting out on the Oregon Trail. Here it is, in all its embarrassing glory:  

Today I quit my humble job as a carpenter and packed my wagon in an attempt to claim my own slice of paradise out west. As a Stromberg man, I knew my lean frame would require a bounty of fruit for sustenance. My local purveyor had a close friend in Latin America so my supplies were rife with Ataúlfo mango, papaya, Mexican lime, and dragon fruit. They were slightly underripe, but in a day or two, I knew they’d bring immense joy. Rumbling through the Midwest plains enlivened my senses: spearmint, honeysuckle, hibiscus, juniper, and wild herbs filled the air. Although I was lonely after setting up camp that first night, I struck flint and started a small fire that wafted out a sweet, deeply comforting smoke. By evening’s end, it had lulled me into a blissful stupor. Tomorrow and the days that follow it promise great things. 

Bottom line, this wine is going to be legendary in due time. If consuming now, give it several hours of air and stretch out your bottle over several days.