Veyder-Malberg, Elsarner “Brandstatt” Riesling
Veyder-Malberg, Elsarner “Brandstatt” Riesling

Veyder-Malberg, Elsarner “Brandstatt” Riesling

Wachau, Austria 2019 (750mL)
Regular price$150.00
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Veyder-Malberg, Elsarner “Brandstatt” Riesling

Here’s the skinny on the “Brandstatt” vineyard in the town of Elsarn, as told by Peter: 


“Brandstatt is my recultivation project in the Spitzer Graben, the coolest area of the Wachau, at about 450 meters [~1500 feet] above sea level. The originally neglected mica-slate vineyard was gradually replanted with Riesling after the walls were repaired. My aim is to press an uncompromising wine on this original terraced vineyard, in which the terroir and an old winemaking tradition are more important than the grape variety. This may involve maceration as well as long aging in local acacia barrels.”


Brandstatt is one heck of a wine, and I say that without having tasted the 2019 vintage—I couldn’t justify cracking a bottle given our meager allocation. That said, I’ve enjoyed older bottles of Brandstatt in the past, plus, the ’21 tank sample at Peter’s winery was extraordinary, so a betting man can go all-in on the superb 2019 vintage. In my experience, Bradnstatt is always a wine of restrained power and opulence with scintillating minerality always at the fore. It should be consumed in Burgundy stems at 55 degrees over the course of 2-3 days.

Veyder-Malberg, Elsarner “Brandstatt” Riesling
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Austria

Northeastern Austria

Weinviertel

Considered by most to be the oldest growing zone in Austria, Weinviertel is also, geographically, the largest in the country and covers the vast, northeastern expanse of Lower Austria, stretching from the western border of Slovakia, following the Danube inland and veering up to the southern border of Czechia. Its name, which translates to “wine quarter,” reflects the region’s rich, ancient wine heritage and, according to the Weinviertel DAC website, there are “7,000 years of artifacts to prove it.”

Northeastern Austria

Wachau

Austria’s Wachau appellation is the country’s most acclaimed region. About an hour northwest of Vienna along the Danube River, the vista of the steep, terraced vineyards of the Wachau creates a magnificent landscape akin to a verdant, ancient amphitheater—it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, after all. With rich and unique soils here of löess and gneiss, which lend vivid minerality to the wine.

Eastern Austria

Burgenland

The Burgenland appellation, running along Austria’s border with Hungary southeast of Vienna, has a diverse topography and a mix of soils, with more primary rock and slate at higher locations and dense loams in the rolling hills that extend toward the Pannonian plain.

Southeastern Austria

Steiermark

The region of Styria (Steiermark) is in southeastern Austria which sits near the border with Slovenia. This area is studded with long-extinct volcanoes whose deposits are a key component of the local soils and the vineyards benefit from a classic Austrian push-pull of cool Alpine air and warmer “Pannonian” currents from the east.

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