The Aglianico grape, especially as grown in the Taurasi region of Campania, is one of Italy’s most important native grapes—a “noble” variety on par with Nebbiolo (Barolo) and Sangiovese (Brunello; Chianti). Even today, however, as southern Italy’s wines continue to grow in prestige and Taurasi—long nicknamed “the Barolo of the south”—is recognized as an important terroir, it remains under-explored and (mostly) overlooked by the “fine wine” market. But as this still-evolving 2010 proves unequivocally, to ignore this place and grape is to miss out on one of the most powerful and distinctive red wine experiences out there. As the notorious tannins of the Aglianico grape soften with time, the generous fruit and remarkable earthy savor of the variety become the story—and what a complex tale it is!
Taurasi is the namesake village of a relatively small cluster of hills in the Irpinia region of central Campania—about 50 kilometers east of Naples but, physically speaking, a world away. Irpinia is the start of the climb into the Campanian Apennines, with vineyard altitudes typically averaging around 400 meters in densely forested hillside sites (chestnut groves are another key feature of the region). The soils are a mix of calcareous (i.e. limestone) marls and volcanic deposits, lending Aglianico its brooding, smoky, deeply mineral character.
This wine is sourced from the “Cretarossa” vineyard in the village of Venticano, which reaches an altitude of nearly 500 meters. Composed of 100% Aglianico, it undergoes a lengthy aging regimen as mandated by the rules of the Taurasi DOCG. “Terzotratto” is aged 12-15 months in small French oak barrels, another 12-15 months in larger oak casks, then 6-8 months in stainless steel tanks and bottle before release.
At the 12 year mark, this is grizzly bear of a wine just emerging from hibernation. In the glass, it’s a deep, nearly opaque ruby-black with hints of garnet and brick orange at the rim, with aromas that make you feel as if you’ve just stepped into a humidor: saturated fruit aromas of black cherry, mulberry, and black plum share the stage with more mature notes of orange peel, licorice, grill char, tobacco, wild herbs, graphite, Turkish coffee, and leather. This needs a deep, rich braise of beef or lamb to bring out its best!
