Although the Laval family has grown grapes in the Vallée de la Marne village of Cumières for generations, it wasn’t until 1971 that the (late) Georges Laval began releasing estate-bottled wines. Georges’ son, Vincent, took over in 1996, with a hands-on approach to the family’s small parcel in this Premier Cru-designated village. Among the many notable features of the Laval wines is the family’s longtime commitment to organic viticulture—they’ve been practicing organic since the 1970s, and have long been certified by Ecocert. The ‘base” wines for the Laval cuvées are fermented in oak barrels, and their grapes are typically harvested later than those of their neighbors—rather than pick grapes early (to preserve acidity) and then add sugar via ‘chaptalization’ (to bring potential alcohol up), Laval aims for perfectly ripe fruit. So much of the Champagne discussion revolves around sugar (whether it’s the practice of chaptalization or the employment of the corrective dosage right before the wine’s final corking). Laval’s aim is to redirect the discussion toward place of origin and varietal character. We’ve mentioned many times here how the greatest Champagnes feel “vinous” (wine-like). These are some of the most vinous Champagnes you’ll ever taste.

“Garennes” is a limited-production cuvée based on 90% Pinot Meunier grown in a half-hectare plot in the village of Chambrecy, on the Montagne de Reims. The reserve wines come from Laval’s home base in Cumières. The wine was fermented in oak, lending it a generous texture, and it received a minimal dosage of just one gram of sugar per liter.