Whenever you see a Premier Cru Chablis on our website, you can be certain that it endured the fiercely competitive Hunger Games of wine tasting, and this time it was Bernard Defaix’s 2015 “Côte de Lechet” Réserve that emerged victorious. But its the sheer margin of victory that left us most surprised: My colleagues and I were blown away by just how effortlessly this wine marched through the ranks, and we watched in awe as pricier bottles from a prominent list of honor roll producers were left in the dust.
We later learned that a strong core of critics deservedly sing the praises of Domaine Bernard Defaix, with
Revue du Vin de France calling their entire range an “outstandingly good value,” Allen Meadows of
Burghound noting them as “remarkably good” wines, and Robert Parker’s
Wine Advocate going so far as to say that today’s 2015 bottle “is just superb.” It makes sense too, especially after learning that this 1er Cru “Côte de Lechet” Réserve is sourced from the very vines that started this domaine in the 1950s and sees 18 months of aging in neutral French oak and stainless steel. And yet, with all this insane quality swirling about, the general population still lies very much in the dark. We too, admittedly, were unaware of the alluringly lush, mineral-marked, texturally-loaded masterpieces emanating from this tiny estate. I’m making up for lost time by going all-in with my personal purchase, and urge fellow top-flight Chablis lovers to do the same!
Although currently run by brothers Sylvain and Didier Defaix, I want to focus on the “founding father” of today’s label. Back in 1955, Bernard Defaix broke ground and hand-planted two hectares of vines in Côte de Lechet, a Premier Cru Chablis vineyard perched on the west side of the Serein, just across from the cluster of Grand Crus. Their parcel enjoys prime southeastern sun exposure and with vines pushing 65 years of age, the yields here (especially in the sun-drenched 2015 vintage) are low yet exceptionally concentrated. With such a prized terroir, they work hard to ensure that all of their farming is 100% organic.
Sylvain and Didier make two “Côte de Lechet” designated wines, a regular cuvée, and today’s vieilles vignes resérve, which is (1) solely culled from their oldest vines, (2) is partially aged in neutral French, and (3) sees extended bottle aging prior to release. Today’s 2015 is made in two parts: half is fermented in stainless steel and half in neutral French Barrels. Following, the two batches age separately in their respective vessels for 12 months. During this period of aging on lees, the wines are regularly stirred (bâttonage) to increase texture and flavor. After a year, the two are blended together and then allowed to age an additional six months before bottling.
Who better to best summarizes today’s 2015 Réserve than the domaine? They note that it “conveys all of Côte de Lechet’s power,” and that couldn’t be truer. For those who haven’t tasted a wine from this Premier Cru before, get ready for a deeply textured, rich, beautifully round Chardonnay that retains Chablis’ signature minerality while incorporating the luxuriousness that can be found in Côte de Beaune. This is not your steely, high-acid, citrusy blend Chablis: It’s loaded with luscious layers of ripe yellow apple, yellow peach, pineapple, Mirabelle plum, apricot, damp stone, chalk, vibrant oak spice, and crushed nuts. In other words, this is serious white Burgundy, and at four years of age, it has entered a perfect drinking window. Rich, harmoniously balanced, and filled with broad textures, this is the Chardonnay I want to drink as we enter the winter months. Enjoy around 55 degrees in large Burgundy stems and pair it alongside pan-seared salmon in a decadent beurre blanc sauce. Cheers!
