If you want to enter the world of premium red Burgundy without buyer’s remorse, this wine is for you. Domaine Chevillon’s wines are something of perplexing beauty —vineyard practices and winemaking here are nothing short of traditional, but with each pop of the cork their wines always deliver a unique experience that separates them from the drove of cookie-cutter Burgundy
As a result, the domaine has caught the attention of Burgundy aficionados around the world, becoming the go-to name when Nuits-Saint-Georges is the topic of conversation. The appellation forms the southern tip of Côte de Nuits, the section of Burgundy famously known for its Pinot Noir. Although Nuits-St-Georges is devoid of Grand Crus, this narrow appellation finds itself wedged between Vosne Romanée to the north and the grand hill of Corton to the south. This slice of land excels as a hot-spot for value, style, and terroir. Throw in the skills of the Chevillon family and you have a truly world-class wine at a relatively affordable price.
Since the late 19th century, Domaine Chevillon has been steadily expanding their reach by adding Premier Cru plots and developing caves and a winery. It has passed through the hands of a vineyard worker from the 1800’s, onto a World War I veteran, and then to Maurice Chevillon during the Second World War. When it came time to hand the reins over to his son Robert, he was ready to establish the domaine as a major player in Burgundy. Robert immediately sought to bottle their own wines instead of selling grapes to négociants, and after decades of growth and recognition, Robert put their wines on everyone’s radar. It is because of these advancements the domaine is eponymously named Robert Chevillon. In 2003, he passed the torch to his two sons—Denis and Bertrand—who have since catapulted the wines to further fame. Reflecting on their continued success, Bertrand has a simple, unassuming answer, “there is no real secret…if your wines have a good quality, people come back!”
Domaine Chevillon’s Nuits-St-Georges “Vieilles Vignes” is sourced from roughly eight acres of 50-year-old vines spread throughout the southeast-facing hillsides that are home to the very best plots of the commune. The soils here are the classic limestone-and-clay mixture, which allows for proper drainage so as not to inundate the roots. The two brothers farm lutte raisonée—organic practices are followed except in the most extreme emergencies—and all grapes are laboriously picked and sorted by hand. After 100% destemming and a lengthy fermentation (sometimes up to five weeks!), the wine undergoes 16 months of aging in 20% new French oak, with the remainder in used barrels.
In the glass, this 2014 shows a dark ruby core with brilliant pink and slight orange reflections. After a bit of air, the wine leaps out of the glass with notes of wild raspberry, wild flowers, black cherry, leather, damp mushroom, forest floor and crushed rocks. The palate provides layered, concentrated flavors and reveals the structure of classic Nuits-St-Georges. Chevillon is known to make long-lived wines and this is no exception. It is best suited for cellaring and will shine brightest after its 7th or 8th birthday, although it has 10-15 years in the tank at a minimum. If consuming now (I’ve already had one or two) do the wine a favor and decant about 45 minutes and serve in large Burgundy stems. With its elevated structure and pronounced acidity, I recommend serving this alongside a fattier dish—braised lamb is one way to go, but a confit duck pasta would be an interesting twist as well. Either way, it is serious red Burgundy that doesn’t come along often at this price point—don’t miss it!
