The Jura’s Jean-François Ganevat is natural wine royalty: He brings a “mad scientist” energy to his incredibly diverse portfolio of wines—in any given vintage, he may release 30+ distinct cuvées, showcasing the full range of Jura grape varieties from his family’s 13 hectares of vineyards. He started his career alongside his father in the 1980s; did a lengthy stint in nearby Burgundy at the legendary Domaine Jean-Marc Morey; then returned to the family domaine in 1998. Rigorous biodynamic farming, minimal-intervention winemaking, and tireless experimentation are the hallmarks here: In addition to his Jura wines, crafted in the small family winery in the hamlet of Le Combe, Jean-François and his sister, Anne, have developed a line of négociant wines, blending native grapes from their Jura estate with purchased fruit from organic growers in other regions. “Le Sa Vient d’Ou?” (“Do You Know Where It Comes From?”) is an exotic, utterly singular blend of Savagnin (about 70%) with Viognier, Picpoul, Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Riesling from several vintages. Some of the components were skin-fermented and others were matured sous-voile, or under a “veil” of yeast, in the traditional Jura style. Racy acidity, notes of kombucha tea, and an oxidative, Sherry-like quality characterize this lip-smacking, saline style of “white.” A 'gastronomic' wine pulsing with energy and crying out for food!