When I say that finding Domaine André Dezat’s insane-value Sancerre was the equivalent of locating a needle in a haystack, I’m not exaggerating: It was 100% happenstance, and that’s what makes it all the more exciting. Earlier this year, we were in Germany for an annual tasting that showcased the most prominent up-and-coming winemakers from across the globe. We were weaving in and out of foot traffic in order to make it to a much-anticipated Champagne appointment, but couldn’t help but skid to a halt upon spotting Dezat’s classically adorned label. We decided to taste the first wine in the lineup and the moment it hit our palate, an explosive fusion of atomized minerality and exotic fruit hypnotized us into putting our bags down and exploring their entire range.
In other words, we chose today’s remarkably classic Sancerre over a top Champagne House—that alone should speak volumes. In the end, today’s epic value was the clear favorite, and we made a deal with them right there on the spot. Later on, we learned why it was such a perfect expression: The Dezat lineage in Sancerre dates back 470 consecutive years, meaning countless generations have spent their lives dedicated to extracting vividly pure, crystalline grapes from these singular soils. Today’s gem illustrates that best by marrying Sancerre’s holy trinity of soils—
silex,
terres blanches, and
caillottes. To experience a wine from one of these soils is magical, to experience one that masterfully blends together all three is legendary. At this miraculously low price, I am inclined to mount our soapbox and proclaim “take all you can.”
Sancerre is the main stomping ground for any true Sauvignon Blanc lover, but it isn’t fair to call it a catch-all appellation: It depends where you are stomping! The appellation actually has three main soil types, each of which expresses its own inimitable personality: (1) Flint-driven silex reveals a strong, bracing mineral core; (2) terres blanches, derived from Chablis’ Kimmeridgian limestone, yields wines of vigor, fruit intensity, and age-worthiness, (3) caillottes, a chalky, gravel-heavy limestone, adds on exquisite aromatics and wonderful finesse. Clearly, each one results in a distinct, equally enticing experience, so what does Domaine André Dezat do? Thanks to their forefathers, their 15 hectares of diverse vines are expertly positioned to combine them all!
After harvesting their Sauvignon Blanc, of which is positioned throughout Sancerre to capture the dazzling qualities of all three unique soils, the grapes are sorted and gently pressed into stainless steel tanks. Although temperature-controlled, they keep it steadily cool, resulting in a long 30-60-day fermentation. The wine then continues aging on its fine lees for several months and is bottled in the following spring.
In the glass, Domaine André Dezat’s 2018 Sancerre reveals a star-bright straw-yellow core with brilliant green and silver highlights. Almost instantaneously, a spectacular rush of grapefruit, passionfruit, Kaffir lime, lemon zest, white peach, crushed rocks, oyster shells, gunflint, damp herbs, acacia, and honeysuckle roll out of the glass, humming with mineral vibrations. While medium-bodied, it displays the uncanny ability to be both ripe and broadly layered, making it an utter delight right now. Still, the bottles you keep for the spring of 2020 will be in prime position to sing the purest of notes. For immediate enjoyment, serve in all-purpose stems around 50-55 degrees and allow it to rest in your glass for 15-20 minutes before your first sip. Great, classic Sancerre is a trusted companion to countless dishes, but the quickest way to nirvana is through a few hunks of chèvre and an unlimited amount of crispy rosemary crackers. Enjoy!
