The power of the “hive mind” is nowhere better displayed than in a Premier or Grand Cru vineyard in Burgundy. When you’ve got many great wine minds, often from multi-generation family dynasties, working side by side in the same plot of land, great things are going to happen—and you can be sure that we’ll be there to compare and contrast the results.
Today, we’ve got our pick for the pound-for-pound champion of the “Les Cailles” Premier Cru in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Not only is this one of those “should be Grand Cru” sites in the eyes of many experts, it boasts a star-studded collection of owners, including Domaine Robert Chevillon, Lucien Le Moine, and Bouchard—all of whom charge at least twice as much as what Domaine Gille does for today’s masterful 2015. There hasn’t been a more winning combination of producer, price, and vintage to cross our lips in quite some time; the style is deeply rooted in the traditions of Nuits-Saint-Georges, where the Gille family has lived for over 450 years. The 2015 vintage was a blockbuster in the Côte de Nuits, which builds further layers of balanced fruit into a hedonistic yet soil-driven bottle of pitch-perfect Pinot Noir. As this Les Cailles hits its ideal drinking window, it will continue to serve you well over the next five to seven years—an elite-level Burgundy value sure to burnish anyone’s “insider” credentials. The only caveat is that there isn’t much: Up to six bottles per customer until this rare, polished gem disappears!
The Gille family has resided in the village of Comblanchien continuously since 1570. Since that time, the domaine has been passed down from father to son, gently waxing and waning in size as a result of vineyard acquisitions and marriages. The present buildings still stand in their original forms, red-tiled roofs and white plaster walls gleaming just the way they did in the early 1900s when Vivant Gille first developed the domain. Vivant was followed by Pierre, his grandson, and Pierre’s wife, Anne-Marie. The two have worked tirelessly to expand their vineyard holdings to include fruit from 17 other appellations. All in all, their holdings total no more than nine hectares, some of which have been owned and farmed by the family since the late 18th century. An entire 70% of Domaine Gille’s vines are between 45 and 90 years old, and their hard-won complexity is reflected in the body of their diverse—but universally excellent—wines.
Premier Cru Les Cailles totals just 7.11 hectares of vines on a bed of chunky limestone. The Gilles only farms a small portion, while a few other noteworthy domaines chip away at fruit for their own—rather more expensive—interpretations of this dense, but lovely fruit. Qualitatively, ‘Les Cailles’ is considered to be just as exceptional as its southern neighbor, Les Saint-Georges—truly one of the great crus of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Vines were planted in 1970, so lower yields are to be expected during the careful, manual harvest. A five-day cold maceration prefaces a natural fermentation without external yeast or temperature control. Maturation lasts 18 months in fine-texture, medium-toast French oak barrels, of which approximately one-third are new. This is a meticulously hand-crafted wine of deep character and easy charm, made in the most traditional manner.
Today's 2015 Les Cailles is dressed in deep ruby, with very subtle lightening on the rim at six years of age. Aromas of clean, crushed red currants and muddled strawberry rise easily after 30 minutes of decanting. Each sniff is outlined by the slightest hint of dried mint and rosepetal. On the palate, fruit is tighter and darker than the nose might imply. Tightly packed layers of blackberry and baked terracotta give fine, firm texture to a medium-plus body. Natural acidity, sappy tannins, structured minerality, and fine balance make this muscular little wine a good candidate for richer foods. Perhaps it’s not an accident that this site is called, ‘Les Cailles’ or ‘The Quails;’ try them roasted with foie gras and lardons for a decadent pairing. The long, fresh finish will provide just the right uplift, and continue to soften gently over the next 5-7 years...the perfect distraction from dipping into your Grand Crus too soon!
