Today we have a multi-pack of red Burgundy I would have pounced on back in my restaurant days: A three-vintage “vertical” from a great producer at a reasonable price? That’s wine-list gold, not to mention a collector’s dream scenario—especially when considering the years on display. As longtime Burgundy lovers are well-aware, the notion of three great vintages in a row in this region would have once been considered fantastical thinking, but in the modern era, it’s not out of the realm of possibility. We’ve been blessed at SommSelect to have lived through the delicious trio that is 2014-2016: a luscious, generous, early-drinking Pinot Noir vintage (’15) sandwiched between two more “classic,” structured years.
So, what would you say to a one-stop master class on the terroir of one of Burgundy’s famous villages (Morey-Saint-Denis) through the lens of one of its top Premier Cru vineyards (“La Riotte”) in the hands of a top grower (François Legros) over the course of these three great vintages? I’d say whether you are a seasoned aficionado or a newly minted enthusiast, today’s vertical is a rare opportunity to take that journey at a price point that’s tantamount to a giveaway. Do you hear it? It’s the rumbling of the stampede rushing to pounce on this incredible deal. A veritable “buy-two-get-one-free” in a Burgundy category where single bottles can easily fetch three figures. Trust me, it’s here today, gone tomorrow. Complimentary Ground Shipping on one order!
Before we drill down on the impressive material comprising François Legros’ Morey-Saint-Denis “La Riotte,” let’s unpack this treasured string of vintages, ranking amongst the six or seven very best from the Côte de Nuits over the last 30 years. First, 2014 harkens back to the pre-global warming era of classic red Burgundy, with its transparency of terroir and classical structure, still often hiding its powerful destiny but guaranteed to emerge with further cellaring. Then there’s 2015, critically acclaimed and highly anticipated, which delivered voluptuous, richly flavorful wines that were simultaneously approachable but built for the long haul. Finally, there’s ’16, the “miracle survivor” vintage that escaped an early, deadly frost and minuscule crop levels to produce intensely perfumed, thrillingly energetic wines with uncanny equilibrium and harmony.
François Legros inherited a small collection of vineyards from his parents and an uncle and used these holdings to launch his domaine in 1988. He increased his footprint with some new sites, bringing the total to about 7.5 hectares across several communes including Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, and Morey-Saint-Denis. In typical Burgundian fashion, he makes many different wines in small quantities, seeking to express the individual personality of each site. His parcels are farmed according to lutte raisonnée principles, wherein organic practices are followed except in emergencies. Today, Legros’ daughter, Charlotte, a graduate of the Lycée Viticole in Beaune, assists in both the vineyards and cellar. All parcels are hand-harvested and fermented naturally. Their typical aging regimen for their Premier Cru wines is 12-18 months in 30%-50% new oak, depending on the vintage. François has emerged as a noteworthy, artisanal grower whose wines are rich, luscious, and complex Burgundies that drink well young yet possess age-worthy structure.
The village and vineyards of Morey-Saint-Denis are wedged between two communes of the Cote de Nuits and typically produces wines often reflecting the character of both neighbors: the elegantly powerful and finely fragrant Chambolle-Musigny to the south and the more brooding, darkly accented Gevrey-Chambertin to its north. Looking down, the five Grand Cru sites run end to end and shoulder to shoulder, across Morey-St-Denis with a band of many Premier Cru sites all running directly downslope. The Premier Crus of the center probably constitute the most qualitative area of Morey and remain strongly influenced by the proximity to the Grand Crus. Amongst the most pedigreed of this group and at the very heart of M-S-D is “La Riotte.” In every vintage, this small, east-facing (cooler) site possesses a distinctively firm, tight-grained minerality from which all other elements of the wine seem to flow. François Legros’ quarter-acre parcel of La Riotte is planted to 45-year old vines in brown clay-limestone soil, sitting within 100 yards to the foot of Clos St. Denis. This is prime Cote de Nuits real estate! All three of Legros’ “La Riotte” vintages were 100% de-stemmed and aged in 30% new oak from a mix of cooperages.
The ’14 La Riotte reveals a bright ruby with intense garnet in the glass. It displays a spice-inflected, floral nose with notes of crushed strawberry and forest floor. The palate is chiseled but delivers sweet, red berry fruit and mineral-laden acidity—it’s well-balanced but holding something back as it finishes with a coy note of spicy violets. It’s generous now but don’t get fooled, this one should withstand a cellar term of at least 10 more years. The ’15 shows a similar visual, with a touch more opacity on a medium-full body. Explosive perfume highlighted by redcurrant, raspberry, brown spices, dried rose, and stony minerality dominates the nose. A concentrated, ripe, and mouth-filling palate combines sweet red berry and spice flavors with a savory element. The supple tannins are buried in plush fruit on the long back end. It's towering and seductive right now. The ’16 is, in a word, stunning! Again, the eye sees a classic deep ruby-garnet. The nose is lifted and exuberant, displaying notes of gingerbread, Indian spices, red berries, sweet florals. A laser-focused palate is packed with endless bright red fruits and warm spiced earth, both concentrated and ethereal at once. This wine requires and deserves your patience. However, if and when you decide to unleash any one of these three gems, please do so after a brisk decant, then enjoy in large Burgundy stems around 60-65 degrees. Cheers!
