Remember that treasure chest of old Gaunoux that was unearthed late last year—the 1998 “Clos des Mouches” Rouge? Although every bottle in our possession was whisked away in the blink of an eye, even the few we wanted for our own private stash, I’m thrilled to tell you that was only half of the trove. Today’s ‘98 Puligny-Montrachet is the second part of that epic release, but given the global state of political/economic affairs over the last 10 months, it’s just now making its way overseas. But that’s quite alright with us because, even at 22 years old, this exquisitely built, mineral-edged, truffle- and spring-loaded wine has nothing but time! It’s a brilliant and exceptionally rare glimpse into how elite white Burgundy evolves over decades, certainly, but also a transcendent, regal bottle of wine from a legitimate icon.
Whether being called “A Burgundy Secret” by Forbes or touted as “one of the finest domaines in all of Burgundy” by luminary Allen Meadows, the praise for Domaine François Gaunoux is as high as it is endless—and that’s even before factoring in their secretive library of back vintages. These rarely seen, perfect-provenance beauties only go to those who are most deserving, so we should all throw out a collective thank you to the powers that be! Today’s micro-parcel only just arrived from their cold cellars, so take what you can—up to six bottles—and savor every ounce of this decades-old Burgundian treasure.
There’s a feeling I get when I encounter a serious, well-aged Burgundy in stellar condition. It’s like a favorite song you haven’t heard in a while coming on the radio. Or re-connecting with a dear old friend from college. Or any other moment of pure joy you might conjure. Mature Burgundy is as moving and aromatically complex as wine gets, awakening not just your senses but your emotions and your intellect as well. And frankly, a lot of this reverie relies on the realities of storage conditions: Had this been plucked from a store shelf, where it may have sat in the heat and light for who knows how long, I doubt its impact would have been the same. But since Gaunoux’s importer special-ordered it for us and had it shipped straight from their cellars in Meursault, there were no worries on that front. Even though this wine has entered its second decade, it is still in robust health—a testament to namesake François Gaunoux and his daughter, Claudine, who quietly craft traditionally styled wines from about 10 hectares in the Côte de Beaune.
Although 87-year-old François Gaunoux, who started his career in his family’s vineyards at the age of 15, is still at it, Claudine is running the show, having ‘officially’ taken over operations back in 2000. They are ultra-traditional in the vineyards and cellar, farming and crafting everything by hand. And what is perhaps most fascinating of all is that Claudine Gaunoux has opted to raise the majority of her wines in tank, usually for 2-3 years before bottling, and they don’t miss the oak one bit. However, today’s ‘98, from a handful of parcels in Puligny-Montrachet, was made by her father. It is a more resolutely “traditional” wine that matured in French barrels for about 15 months. Upon bottling, it was laid to rest in their cellar where it went untouched for almost two decades.
A sample of François Gaunoux’s 1998 “Puligny-Montrachet” was sent to us last late year, along with the ‘98 Clos de Mouche Rouge, and we were absolutely dazzled by its expressiveness, tension, and energy. While I could easily recall those notes, I felt compelled to open another bottle when the parcel arrived last week—who knows if I’ll have a chance to purchase after the offer goes live! The results? Wow. Breathtaking. There’s no need to decant here: After five minutes in the glass, the wine broadcasted beautifully mature aromatics of bruised apple and pear, preserved lemon, dried pineapple, crushed almonds, white truffle, acacia honey, lees, and crushed stones. The palate reveals perfect tension and a sweeping array of minerals that further enhance the sublime energy radiating throughout. Having had innumerable bottles of mature Chardonnay, this is exactly what you want when pulling the cork on a 20+-year-old white Burgundy. It is pedigree and authenticity epitomized. Put this on the table and it’s guaranteed to attract any and all Burgundy connoisseurs. Savor it slowly, in large Burgundy stems around 55 degrees, and enjoy over the next five years. Cheers!
