With wrench-tight allocations and an envious arsenal of world-famous vineyard holdings, Georges Lignier is on the fast track to dominating Grand Cru Burgundy’s hall of fame. The irony of it all is that 99.9% (repeating nine) of all wine drinkers will never be able to experience them. Ask any in-the-know critic/collector: Lignier’s Grand Crus are Pinot Noir nonpareil and relentless searching nevertheless leaves many empty-handed.
That’s especially the case for today’s 2015 Grand Cru Bonnes-Mares, a year that Burgundy producers have likened to 2005 and 2010 with some, according to
Decanter, saying the best in 60 years.” Lignier’s sustained presence on SommSelect years before (1) the world realized they were witnessing a mega-superstar in the making; (2) prices began creeping upward; and (3) it was impossible to track down a substantial allocation, has finally earned us the greatest gift of them all: Today’s Bonnes-Mares micro-bottling—heavy emphasis on micro. Because Liginier owns just .25 hectares of 100-year-old, low-yielding vines here, this marks our first crack at this wine and the very first time I’ve actually laid eyes on it. And a quick look at the Bonnes-Mares competition reveals that it’s a veritable steal: Roumier ($2,000), Mugnier ($1,200), Dujac ($1,100), Drouhin ($800), de Vogüé ($700), Bruno Clair ($500). Buy one of each for a total of $6,300 or six bottles of Lignier’s extraordinary lush, regal take and save yourself $4,500. The answer, to us at least, is evidently clear. It is an extraordinary Grand Cru destined for legendary status—don’t miss it!
[*NOTE: Today’s extremely limited pre-offer will be arriving at our warehouse in two weeks’ time. We can offer six bottles per person until our allocation runs out.]
Domaine Georges Lignier has been producing wine in Morey-Saint-Denis for decades, and with the single largest stake in Grand Cru “Clos Saint-Denis,” plus ownership in Grand Crus “Charmes-Chambertin,” “Clos de la Roche” and today’s “Bonnes-Mares,” it’s hard to dispute that Lignier has perhaps the most valuable collection of vineyards in the appellation. Benoit Stehly, nephew of Georges Lignier, apprenticed in the vines and cellar for 10+ years before assuming control in 2008. Following an era of post-succession confusion and stylistic soul-searching, the quality of the wine at this address has skyrocketed in recent vintages and now matches the extraordinary potential of the real estate. As a result, Domaine Georges Lignier is now one of the village’s most prestigious addresses.
Benoit’s holdings in “Bonnes-Mares” come in at .25 hectares—roughly half the size of a football field—but it’s the vines themselves, not the size of the plot, that excites me most. These gnarled beasts were planted in 1920 and have been treated like ancient royalty under the watch of Benoit. The property’s signature methods in the vines and cellar are classic, but the “house style” is one that puts a premium on complexity and depth of aroma for today’s Bonnes-Mares: fruit is harvested slightly later than that of their neighbors; 80% is de-stemmed; a close eye is kept on barrel levels and fermentation temperatures; new oak never dominates (40%); maturations are delightfully long (22 months). The wines are neither fined nor filtered, but this is not your earthy, savory, mushroom-scented Burgundy. On the contrary, the property’s recent celebrity is built on a lineup of wines that possess intensely vibrant, pure fruit.
Last month, this 2015 Bonnes-Mares was revealed to us at the start of a tasting as a “thank you” for our continued support of Georges Lignier. But, as general proceedings go, it was held until the end. Although about 20 bottles were ahead of it, none of us could take our eyes off this Grand Cru stunner. When the time finally came, it was nothing short of remarkable: Having spent about 60 minutes without the cork, the was a breathtakingly lush and inviting Pinot Noir the moment it splashed into our large Burgundy stems (I'd still advise a lengthy decant, though). It rolled out with the purest, high-toned cherries and plums imaginable, followed by a beautifully ripe cascade of redcurrant, black raspberry liqueur, light smoke, black tea, crushed forest floor, whole clove, damp rose petal, and exotic spices. The full-bodied—for Grand Cru Burgundy—palate delivered a mesmerizing experience with its multi-textural, ripe-fruited core vibrating from a delicious swirl of crushed minerals and ultra-fine savory components. This wine may be a statement piece in your cellar, but its profundity is worth every penny. Already, it’s putting up a near-perfect Grand Cru performance, but it is poised to reach perfection in 2025 and far, far beyond. Enjoy this staggering rarity because another offering is certainly not guaranteed. Cheers!
