Like my favorite producers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine la Bouïssiere knows how to find the finesse and fragrance in southern Rhône Grenache. Thierry and Giles Faravel do it in nearby Gigondas, where their high-elevation vineyards climb the foothills of Dentelles de Montmirail, the spiky mountain range that dominates France’s Vaucluse.
Their father, Antonin, was a local legend who began planting vines in Gigondas’ upper reaches in the 1960s; he believed that the cooler temperatures at these higher elevations (300-500 meters), combined with the rocky, limestone-rich soils, would produce a livelier breed of Gigondas—a wine that caressed the palate, rather than bludgeoning it. He was right, of course, and to me, Domaine la Bouïssiere is the standard-bearer of this appellation. Usually a 70-30 blend of Grenache and Syrah aged in a mixture of concrete tanks and old oak foudre (large vats), this is consistently one of the most soulful, authentic, and fascinating southern Rhône reds we offer on SommSelect. This 2017 is pitch-perfect, exhibiting the nerve and aromatic that distinguishes the best mountain-grown wines. It’s only a “baby Châteauneuf” in terms of price—otherwise, it lacks for nothing.
And I love the simple, declarative label, with its evocative illustration of the Dentelles de Montmiral. The western foothills of this chain are where most of the key villages of the southern Rhône reside, including Gigondas, Vacqueyras, and Beaumes-de-Venise. Antonin Faravel worked at the legendary Domaine Pierre Amadieu in Gigondas for more than 30 years, passing along his incomparable knowledge of the local terroir to Thierry and Giles. Their pioneering “Grand Bouïssiere” vineyard in Gigondas was planted between 1963 and 1966, much of it on terraces to combat the steep pitches of the slopes. In addition to being one of the highest-elevation sites in Gigondas, it has a northwestern aspect, which mitigates some of the sunlight intensity. So, while there is no shortage of ripeness and intensity in the Bouïssiere Gigondas, it is in balance. It has energy, enough to “carry” its elevated alcohol with ease.
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Then there’s the texture, which is as silky and seductive as it gets: This 2017 is ready to drink, but should continue to evolve over the next 5-7 years as well. Decant it for 30 minutes before serving in Bordeaux stems and you’ll see a wine with a deep ruby core moving to magenta and pink at the rim, with perfumed aromas of wild red and black berries, kirsch, raspberry, dates, licorice, lavender, mint, warm spice, scrub-brush, and dusty earth. It is powerful and nimble at once, an amazing feat that only a few southern Rhône reds manage to pull off consistently. Keep it on the cool side (60 degrees) and serve it with something that speaks to its southern French origins. The attached lamb tagine recipe incorporates a spice mixture that should harmonize beautifully with this wine. Enjoy!
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