Mondeuse is the mountain cousin of Northern Rhône Syrah—literally, in the sense that DNA analysis has linked it to Syrah, and figuratively, in that it drinks like the prettier, wilder, barefoot version bedecked in Alpine wildflowers. Mondeuse has been cultivated in the rugged mountains of Savoie for centuries. Ancient Gallic tribes first planted it prior to Roman invasion, and the vines survived long after they were gone. Columella, famous Roman writer on the topic of farming, referred to it as “the grape variety that ripens amidst the snow,” and its nickname
maldoux (“bittersweet”) appears in texts as early as 1731. While its history is fascinating, Mondeuse has an even brighter future ahead of it.
Its addicting drinkability has been steadily winning hearts and palates far from its Alpine home. And no wonder, considering it has the pristine fruit of Gamay, the mineral savor of Syrah and a high toned herbal accent similar to Cabernet Franc. Best of all, Jean-Vullien’s single-vineyard expression is just $22. That’s a ridiculously good deal for one of the most pleasurable, versatile wines I’ve had this year. I’ll take it one step further, in fact: This bottle has legitimate aging potential, too, which is not something we say very often about wines at this price point. It’s got us looking at the Savoie in a whole new way.
Domaine Jean Vullien et Fils is one of a passionate contingent of local producers determined to bring Mondeuse to the wider world. The “et Fils” refers to David and Oliver—Jean’s two sons now primarily responsible for running the domaine. Their 69 total acres are planted on the steep slopes of Savoie, where they are the fourth generation of winemakers. Remember that we’re in the Alps here. Elevations change just as quickly as the seasons do. Cold winters whip freezing air off deep, Alpine lakes in the wintertime while warm sunshine paints the mountains a shocking green in the summer. These are tough little vines with low yields, sustainably farmed in the lutte raisonnée style. The term translates to “reasoned fight” in English but more accurately describes a system of supervised control, the careful balance between traditional farming and gentler, more environmentally friendly modern techniques. Chemicals are only used when absolutely necessary, and biodiversity is encouraged through the use of dense cover crops, gentle plowing, and the use of manures and natural compost. It works well for the Vulliens, whose vines grow in the shadow of the Massif des Bauges. They’re planted on a scrabbly layer of scree accumulated over centuries as tiny pebbles came tumbling down from the ski-able slopes above. The soils below are dark Jurassic limestone and black marl; a good starting point for bright, mineral wines.
The Vullien holdings include 16 whole acres of Mondeuse in St-Jean-de-la-Porte and Arbin—the only two crus within Savoie that produce exclusively red wine from Mondeuse in a region otherwise dominated by whites. This grape is as fun as it is rare, once relegated to après-ski but now growing in popularity and presence as an age-worthy, food-friendly wine drinking way above its price range. The Vulliens champion the subtlety of Mondeuse and its ability to transparently express the minerality terroir of Savoie. They’re careful not to over-manipulate, destemming 100 percent of their fruit before a 72-hour cold maceration. A 10-day fermentation is followed by 20 more days of maceration with regular punch-downs to extract just the right amount of bitterness and color from the skins. The wines are aged in French oak for 12 months before being bottled without filtration.
Today’s 2018 is a bright purple with a dark red core and a hot pink rim, opaque when you’ve poured a full glass. The color alone makes your mouth water; it’s so vibrant and appetizing. Let the wine breathe for a few minutes in Burgundy stems at around 60 degrees; its intense perfume starts to deepen. What initially smells like a pile of crushed roses quickly develops smoke, black olive, and thyme notes. This Mondeuse is spicy and smooth, with a mildly tannic bite and a lot of fruit-forward vivacity. The palate is redolent of red plum skin, and bouncy bitter cherries. Underneath it all is a crunchy, mountainous minerality that complements its elevated acidity. It’s juicy and wild but you can still feel its relation to Syrah in its gamier undertones. Those will intensify over time; if you cellar this bottle it’ll still be singing in 10 years.
I always recommend picking your food pairing based on what the locals are eating, especially when Savoie has a treasure trove of traditional recipes. Tartiflette is a rich, cheesy potato bake stuffed with bacon—like your favorite scalloped potatoes on steroids. The Mondeuse’s lively acidity and fruit will cut right through a heady dose of double cream and potatoes, but you’re going to need more than a single bottle…and probably a nap afterward. Enjoy!
