Today’s wine makes as strong a case for Burgundy’s Mâconnais region as any I’ve ever seen. It’s not just that it’s an exceptional value, but that it’s representative of the genuine excitement surrounding Mâcon wines these days. As land values skyrocket throughout Burgundy—but most dramatically in the toniest precincts of the Côte de Beaune/Nuits—appellations like Saint-Véran are where talented, ambitious young producers like Frantz Chagnoleau can make Burgundies this good for this little.
And by “good” I don’t mean “good for a Saint-Véran,” but rather “seriously good white Burgundy, period.” Before launching this small domaine in 2010, Frantz Chagnoleau worked with Mâconnais stalwart Olivier Merlin, while his wife, Caroline Gon, cut her winemaking teeth with none other than Héretiers du Comte Lafon—the Mâcon outpost of Meursault’s legendary Domaine des Comtes Lafon. Well, when you learn from the best, it shows, as does the profound limestone terroir of Saint-Véran: This beautifully pure, crystalline 2017 would fool many a Burgundy expert in a blind tasting. I certainly would have guessed (a) Côte de Beaune and (b) a much higher price point had I been presented this wine blind, but really, I think the Mâconnais in general has matured well beyond the “well-priced alternative” phase. This place, and this wine, is a destination unto itself!
Today’s 2017, called “Prelude,” was fermented on indigenous yeasts and aged in a 50-50 mix of used foudres and demi-muids (both larger-sized barrels). In the glass, it’s a medium straw-yellow with silver and green reflections, with aromas that might lead you further north, to, say, Puligny-Montrachet. Scents of yellow apple, salted lemon, lime blossom, wildflowers, wet stones, and subtle spice. It is medium-bodied, leaning towards medium-plus, through right now the freshness and minerality keep everything buttoned-up and refreshingly citrusy. All in all, this is an extremely impressive bottle given its “entry-level” status in the Chagnoleau lineup, with 5-10 years of positive evolution ahead of it. An appealing core of fruit emerges with time open, so splash it in a decanter a half-hour before serving in all-purpose whites or Burgundy stems. Thanks to the wine and my imagination, my mouth was watering thinking of this wine next to a beautiful piece of white fish in a lemon-butter sauce. Perfection, as far as I’m concerned—it’s not complicated, folks! Enjoy!