Hendry is a rarity, plain and simple. This year marked the 80th consecutive vintage the Hendrys have diligently worked their sprawling estate vineyard, a feat that has allowed them to master the art of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. But there’s more to it than that: In an age where holding onto excess inventory is considered a high-risk business move, Hendry adheres to their tradition of slowly re-releasing classic vintages when they believe it’s time—14 years in today’s case.
Great Napa Cabernet always evokes the purity and earthy savor of elite Bordeaux and, in that same vein, Hendry would warrant a top ranking if Napa Valley had Classified Growths. These exquisitely crafted, “old-school” wines are from the calloused hands of purebred farmers who have spent decades familiarizing themselves with their benchland vines. Now consisting of 50 separate blocks, Hendry boasts unique grape varieties and climatic nuances to discover with each step, but without question, their heirloom parcels are old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon—the heart and soul of today’s offer. These bottles are still resting in their place of origin as we speak, so take comfort in knowing that you’re receiving a pitch-perfect expression of place and provenance from one of Napa’s true icons. Do not miss it!
Their hallowed tract of land is one of Napa’s genesis vineyards, having first been planted in 1859 and purchased by George Hendry’s father in 1939. As grape prices began exploding in the second half of the 20th century, farmers began a vine-planting frenzy. Consequently, most of Hendry estate was re-planted in the early ’70s, which quickly caught the attention of some legendary Napa neighbors, including Robert Mondavi. According to Hendry’s website, “by the late ‘80s, Mondavi was buying all of the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and dividing the Cabernet Sauvignon with Opus One.”
Sustainability is a major focus at Hendry, which can be a tricky uphill battle due to the sheer number of blocks, microclimates, and 11 unique grape varieties. One thing that remains constant, however, is the classic alluvial soils and the much-needed breeze funneling up from San Pablo Bay. For their 2005 flagship bottling, four blocks of Cabernet Sauvignon were chosen, with their cherished block 8—planted in 1974—making up the core (see the
attached map if you want to geek out). Following a long fermentation in 2005, the resulting wine was transferred into 100% new French oak for 18 months. Today’s stock hasn’t moved from Hendry since bottling. Ultimately, the Hendrys live on three winemaking principles: “Keep the alcohol under control, produce dry wines, and do not allow oak to take control of the flavors.” Sounds like an ‘old world’ mindset, doesn’t it?
Like the ‘06 we previously offered, Hendry’s 2005 Estate Cabernet exhibits an opaque dark ruby core moving out to a vibrant ruby band on the rim, but you’ll find this is a totally different bird once you put your nose in the glass. It’s deeper, denser, and more brooding yet equally as fresh (it drinks like an 8- to 10-year-old wine). With a 30-minute decant, haunting, slow-building aromas of black raspberry liqueur, currants, ripe plums, dried black cherries, volcanic ash, tobacco leaf, dusty gravel, raw leather, damp violets, cigar box, and turned soil swirl around a core of tightly knit baking spices. The palate is a lively tour de force, showing off dark, silken fruits and granular tannins that provide additional texture. Rich layers of judicious oak flavors, crushed earth, and savory herbs sing together in harmony, meaning this is right smack dab in the middle of its drinking window and will be staying there over the next 5-8 years. Simply enjoy in Bordeaux stems around 65 degrees before matching it alongside a tender filet mignon cut soaked in a decadent mushroom sauce. Cheers!