As you’ve likely noticed, we use the term
lieu-dit a lot in our offers—especially Burgundy offers. It translates as “place name” and it is fundamental to one’s understanding of the concept of
terroir (the French really have the best words). Today’s stunningly good Gevrey-Chambertin from Jean Tardy is from a
lieu-dit called “Champerrier,” which, at some point in Burgundy history, local
vignerons thought enough of to give it a name.
A
lieu-dit isn’t just a place, it’s a special place, whether it carries a Premier/Grand Cru designation or not. Champerrier would likely merit strong consideration for Premier Cru status if that long-established hierarchy were revisited today, but I’ve got to say: When the wine is this good, who cares? Yes, it would likely help Tardy commercially, which I’m all for, but it would also push the price up significantly, which I’m less enthusiastic about. Such is the life of a wine professional who’s also a consumer: I want to be able to drink genuinely elite red Burgundy at a price I can afford. Today’s wine offers the added benefit of hailing from 2012, which produced wines of unquestionable longevity, and while this one’s label says Gevrey-Chambertin, this bottle leans more towards the perfume, pristine fruit, and sheer elegance I usually find in Morey-Saint-Denis. It was offered to us exclusively, and at seven years old, it’s just now entering the window of drinkability that Guillaume Tardy himself prefers. Most of what he makes from his acre or so of Champerrier ends up in Michelin-starred restaurants in France, so grab up what little we have to offer today. This is a special wine with a long life still ahead of it—but it’s also on fire this very second!
The Tardy family hails from Flagey-Echézeaux, but it was Guillaume Tardy’s grandfather, Victor, who, in 1920, signed up for vineyard work at the legendary Burgundy estate Domaine Méo-Camuzet. Over 25 years, his hard but meticulous work was handsomely rewarded: Etienne Camuzet offered Victor some of his vineyard sites for sharecropping. Victor’s son, Jean, assumed control in 1966, furthering the time-honored relationship with Méo-Camuzet, which in turn offered more elite vines—most notably, those in Grand Cru Clos Vougeot. Jean’s son—current-day proprietor Guillaume—has been at the helm since 2001.
Today’s wine, as noted above, hails from “Champerrier,” which is downslope from Gevrey’s “Champeaux” Premier Cru and was first planted in 1920. The average age of the vines today in Champerrier is around 60 years, and this bottling shows both the density and powerful aromatics that result from vines that must dig through the rich limestone and fine silt soils in search of nutrients. After de-stemming, a cold soak, and regular punch-downs, the wine is aged in one-third new oak barrels for about a year. The result is a Premier-Cru worthy Pinot Noir, with power and elegance, bracing acidity, and remarkable complexity. Tardy’s wines so impressed Alain Ducasse that the label is now a mainstay in the venerable chef’s Parisian hubs, like Plaza Athénée and Le Meurice.
Tardy’s 2012 “Champerrier” Vieilles Vignes reveals a deep ruby color in the glass with light garnet hues circling the rim. With a little breathing room, highly perfumed aromas burst from the glass: black cherry confit, dried blackberry, strawberries, rose petals, dried wildflowers, forest floor, and a delicate baking spice which is perfectly integrated. Juicy, silky, and supple on the palate, it rides a wave of black currants, black tea, forest floor, and fresh-foraged mushrooms, with hints of dried cherries, roses, and a touch of oak. Delicate, tea-like tannins are present, but elongated, lending a real drinkability out the gate (even without food). Still, it is fortified with deep mineral tension and perfect acidity that will keep it drinking well into the next decade. If enjoying a bottle now, simply pull the cork and let it breathe for an hour or so, then serve in large Burgundy stems around 60 degrees and don’t hold back—whip up your best cheese board, pull the corks on a couple of bottles, and revel in the happy dance between fat and acid while an herb-rubbed pork loin cooks to perfection in the oven. Enjoy!
