When it comes to vineyard ownership, Burgundy can become twisted in a hurry. Today’s wine has a complicated, uniquely Burgundian backstory, but it’s well worth your time: This 2002 “Clos de Vougeot” Grand Cru from Jean Tardy is a deal-of-a-lifetime wine.
Just how good of a deal are we talking? Well, here’s the story: Every Burgundy connoisseur knows Méo-Camuzet, one of the region’s most celebrated domaines. Under a traditional tenant-farming agreement known as
métayage, Méo-Camuzet enlisted Domaine Jean Tardy to farm its prized, quarter-hectare parcel of “Grand Maupertuis,” one of the top
lieu-dit (named) sections of “Clos de Vougeot.” Originally, Tardy farmed the site and vinified the wine from it—sharing half of the production as rent—but at the turn of the 21st century, Méo-Camuzet took over the vinification while continuing to split the production with Tardy. What does all this ultimately mean? That the only difference between Jean Tardy’s and Méo-Camuzet’s 2002 Clos de Vougeot (which currently has a global average of $500+) is the label—that’s it! This exclusive arrangement between the two domaines has since ended, so now’s your limited chance to experience a rarefied Grand Cru bottle, from an acclaimed vintage, at a never-to-be-seen-again price. We were only able to secure a few cases of this rarity, and as such we can only offer up to two bottles per customer until our stock disappears. I suspect it will do so quickly!
We’re grateful to Tardy’s importer and to the author of this
extensive Forbes article about Méo-Camuzet’s “Clos de Vougeot,” for helping us unravel the story behind this exceptional bottle. The Tardy wine legacy started with Guillaume’s grandfather, Victor, who, in the 1920s, found a job as a vineyard worker at Méo-Camuzet—where he remained for 25 years. For his hard work and dedication, Etienne Camuzet offered Victor some of his vineyard sites for sharecropping; he gladly accepted. Victor’s son, Jean, assumed control in 1966 and, because of such a time-honored relationship, Méo-Camuzet shared another batch of elite vines—most notably, those that produced fruit for today’s 2002 Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot. Sadly, this agreement came to an end in 2007, so there aren’t many more ‘insider’ bottles like this remaining in the world!
In 2002, Jean Tardy hand-tended this small parcel of mid-19th-century vines while applying natural composts and avoiding chemicals. Once the grapes were harvested, Jean-Nicolas Méo took over the winemaking controls. The resulting wine aged in mostly new French oak and was bottled without filtration. Méo-Camuzet’s—er, rather, Jean Tardy’s 2002 Clos de Vougeot is simply an amazing Grand Cru feat. I surprised our Board of Directors with this at a recent dinner and they were floored by its depth and elegance—there is so much finessed power and perfume packed into this wine! After a brief decant, it revealed a vibrant savoriness underpinned by various baking spices and forested underbrush. Drop-dead gorgeous aromas of dried black cherry, tea leaves, currants, red plums, wild berries, and mushroom stock bursted out of the glass and wafted along the table for hours. Really, how often do you get to drink a world-class Grand Cru Burgundy that has entered peak maturity? Its tannins are ultra-smooth; its weight nearly ethereal; and its lengthy finish is populated with crushed minerality and savory, red-tinged fruits. Serve around 65 degrees in large Burgundy stems and bring along a few of your favorite friends for this memory-forming experience. It’ll put the room in a stupor—that we can guarantee! If you’re lucky enough to buy more than one, be sure to save the remaining bottle because there is well over a decade left in this royal beauty! Cheers!