With 12 years of undisturbed cellaring, today’s harmoniously balanced, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Hendry’s very own benchland vineyard (once a major source for Opus One!) is simply enchanting. The aromatics are divine, simultaneously reminding me of ‘classed growth’ Bordeaux and traditional Napa Cabernet before inflated ratings defined a wine. Experiencing the beauty of exquisitely crafted “old school” styles of mature Napa Cabernet is a dream in itself, but if attaching a heritage family of purebred farmers, genuine magic is created.
When harvest arrives later this year, it will mark the 80th consecutive vintage the Hendrys have diligently worked their sprawling estate vineyard. Now consisting of 50 separate blocks, there are unique grape varieties and climatic nuances to discover with each step, but without question, their heirloom parcels are old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon—the heart and soul of today’s 2006 offering. We were thrilled to receive a small chunk of this mature beauty, even more so after its shockingly low price was revealed. These bottles are still resting in their place of origin as we speak, so take comfort in knowing that you’re receiving a pitch-perfect expression of place and provenance from one of Napa’s true icons.
Their hallowed tract of land is one of Napa’s genesis vineyards, having first been planted in 1859 and purchased by George Hendry’s father in 1939. As grape prices began exploding in the second half of the 20th century, farmers began getting their hands even dirtier, thus starting a vine-planting frenzy. Consequently, most of Hendry estate was re-planted in the early ’70s, which quickly caught the attention of some legendary Napa neighbors, including Robert Mondavi. According to Hendry’s website, “by the late-‘80s, Mondavi was buying all of the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and dividing the Cabernet Sauvignon with Opus One.”
Sustainability is a major focus at Hendry, which can be a tricky uphill battle due to their sheer number of vineyard blocks, microclimates, and 11 unique grape varieties. One thing that remains constant, however, is the classic alluvial soils and the much-needed breeze funneling up from San Pablo Bay. For this 2006 bottling, four blocks of Cabernet Sauvignon were chosen, with their cherished block 8—planted in 1974—making up the core (see the
attached map if you want to geek out). After a weeklong harvest in the middle of October 2006, grapes were handpicked and shuttled to the winery. Following a long fermentation, the resulting wine was transferred into 100% new French oak for 21 months. Today’s stock hasn’t moved from Hendry since bottling. Ultimately, the Hendrys live on three winemaking principles: “Keep the alcohol under control, produce dry wines, and do not allow oak to take control of the flavors.” Sounds like an ‘old world’ mindset, doesn’t it?
Hendry’s 2006 Estate Cab exhibits an opaque dark ruby core moving out to a band of vibrant ruby on the rim. You’ll find a sizeable amount of suspended sediment in your glass if opening right after arrival, so we recommend standing the bottle upright several days prior to consumption. Letting the wine breathe is optional here, but it certainly would hurt to show a 15-30 minute decant to both remove the wine from its sediment and allow it to stretch its 12-year-old legs. On the nose, you can’t mistake this for anything other than top-quality Napa Cabernet in its absolute sweet spot. Those less experienced with tasting aged Napa Cabernet could think this was high-end Bordeaux, but it is a very classic example of exquisitely balanced Napa Cabernet. It reveals inviting aromatics of black currant liqueur, volcanic ash, gravel, black cherry, and black plums, along with integrated notes of myriad baking spices. You’ll pick up on silky smooth dark fruits that curl up next to baking spices, cacao nibs, cedar box, cigar wrapper, tobacco, fresh violets, and a cooling spearmint effect. This is right smack dab in the middle of its drinking window, oozing rich and ripe fruits, crushed earth, and a slight herbal sensation that is amplified by gloriously suave tannins. Simply enjoy in Bordeaux stems around 65 degrees (about 15-20 minutes in your fridge) before matching it alongside a medium-rare ribeye with a savory angle. Cheers!