As the Danube snakes its way toward Vienna, the striking river valley region of Lower Austria is a spectacle to behold. If you were to travel up river in a boat from Vienna would soon see the Kamptal wine region to your right, Kremstal to your left, and the Wachau a bit farther down. Geyerhof’s history itself is just as magnificent as the landscape that surrounds it. Winemaker Ilse Maier’s family on her maternal side has been crafting wine in Kremstal’s Oberfucha village for over 400 years. With a lineage that includes a concession to ship their wine on the Danube (as illustrated on the front label) by Archduchess Marie Thérèse in the 17th century, and a cellar that once housed Napoleon’s wine rations while campaigning nearby, Weingut Geyerhof has enough history to garner quite a storied reputation. Legacy, however, is not all that sets this winery apart. 

An early pioneer of organic viticulture in Austria, Ilse has not only worked “preserving nature and utilizing the vitality of the soil” on her 20 hectares, she has sought to educate fellow winemakers on the benefits of creating a sound ecosystem with her publications. As such, they have held organic certification for over 30 years. Currently, Ilse’s son, Josef, has been studying agriculture and winemaking in Vienna in an effort to uphold the family business. Today’s  “Rosensteig”—a single vineyard within the town of Hollenburg—is, like a non-vintage bottling at a Champagne House, their calling card. Following a hand harvest, the Grüner is gently pressed with deliberate oxygen exposure to add complexity to the soon-to-be wine’s flavor profile (just wait until you try it!). After fermentation and long lees contact in large stainless steel vessels, the wine is bottled unfined. 

The result is a stunning white that showcases every ounce of Grüner’s spicy/savory delights. Geyerhof’s 2016 “Rosensteig” pours a deep straw-yellow with silver and vibrant green hues dancing about. The nose explodes with enticing notes of Key lime, lemon blossoms, green and yellow apples, delicate white flowers, honeysuckle, white pepper, snap peas, crushed rocks, and a touch of freshly picked arugula. The palate impresses with a medium body that has layers and layers of classic savory Gruner character. This is so much more than a typical refreshing, laser-beam Grüner—it carries itself impressively well with piquant intensity and explosions of high-toned, mouthwatering citrus. It finishes with great brightness and energy, all while alluding to intense, savory complexities that will further develop in the coming years. Serve in all-purpose stems around 50 degrees and match it with a close companion: pork schnitzel and winter coleslaw—a tangy, lip-smacking side dish that will amplify this already authentic pairing. Cheers!