Gianni Economou is the man. Known and revered by fellow winemakers and wine geeks around the globe, his niche Cretan wines are secret gems and something almost transcendental to discover.
Nestled off the Greek mainland and north of Africa in the gleaming blue waters of the south Aegean Sea, Crete is the largest and most populous island in Greece. Today’s wine is located in Sitia, which is an isolated appellation separated from the bustling activity by breathtakingly dramatic gorges, steep hillsides, and intimidating switchbacks. Economou’s vineyards boast treasured, ungrafted vines (to experience a wine grown on its original rootstock is a true rarity), many of which have Liatiko hanging from them—an indigenous variety that can only be found on this island. The countless complexities found in today’s spectacular bottle is a direct result of these old, native vines, nearly 15 years of undisturbed maturation, and this one-with-nature winemaker. It’s an extremely limited offer that provides a rarefied glimpse into the most honest expression of grape and place in this unique corner of the world.
Crete’s history also digs deep and possesses a truly ancient history of winemaking that is believed to reach back to the Minoan Civilization. The Minoans are currently the earliest recorded civilization in Europe and are believed to have been making wine since before 1600 BC. Although Crete is more famous as a tourist destination than a breeding ground of great wines and winemakers, one particular Cretan producer stands head and shoulders above the rest of his peers, in Greece and around much of Europe as well.
Originally from Crete, Gianni graduated with an enology degree from Alba before he went on to learn alongside the greats at some Europe’s most lauded wine houses. From Château Margaux in Bordeaux to cellar work across Germany to Ceretto and Scavino in Piedmont, Gianni culled his abilities under the best in the business. Although he had ample opportunity across France and Italy, Gianni knew he could do something rare and pure in his home soil. So he returned in 1994 and breathed new life into his family vineyards. Gianni only releases his wines when they are ready, not when it's commercially convenient. Today’s wine from the 2004 vintage was derived from ungrafted vines pushing 70 years of age, grown in a blend of marl/schist/sand, and farmed organically from an altitude of over 2000 feet! The pristine fruit was fermented with spontaneous native yeast and aged in mixed French oak for 24 months before being transferred into stainless steel vats for several years. It was bottled without filtration and sent back to the cellar until late last year. The result is a wine of immense complexity, pitch-perfect balance and an experience that is totally profound.
Domaine Economou’s 2004 flagship wine reveals a bright ruby center that quickly moves out to a limpid brick orange rim. There are faint wisps of sediment and incredibly fine particles throughout, but they don’t detract from the stunning experiencing. The wine is powerful yet delicate, so I would recommend avoiding a decant to preserve each and every flavor—and there are lots of them! Burgundian aromas, Sangiovese flavors, and Barolo structure all with an underpinning of salinity. What is this wine?! It’s the inimitable magic of Oikonomy’s long-aged, mesmerizing chameleon. Brace yourself for the following aromatics: cherries, seaspray, cured meat, dried plums, currants, orange peel, tomato leaf, red apple skin, tobacco, leather, cracked earth, dried rose petal, and balsamic. It reveals a medium-plus body on the palate that touches every taste bud with piquant, savory flavors of dried red fruits. Slow building, fine-grained tannins keep the wine serious as your mouth waters from elevated levels of acidity...all of which harmoniously culminates with an extra-savory finish. This has an exciting life ahead of it—if properly kept, you can expect 5-10+ years of continuous evolution. Serve in a large Burgundy stem around 60 degrees and allow 15 minutes of air before your first sip, with your last coming around hour two. For an on-the-nose pairing, try the attached Greek meatballs and double the recipe because they are addictingly “poppable.” Cheers!
